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Day 18: Chains barrow to Wheddon Cross (15.8 miles)

I woke up at 6am after a disturbed night, shivering for what seemed forever but may have been just the first couple of hours until I warmed up and put my waterproof on top of the sleeping bag. I woke with wind on the side of tent as it had veered during night. I will need to check the length of cord to that corner but not now! I was freezing cold so put all the layers I could possibly have, on and gradually sorted packing - had a banana etc as didn’t feel up to lighting the stove, particularly with the wind. As I started to wipe condensation off the tent, to my horror, discovered it was ice. No wonder I was cold! I’ll aim to camp lower down tonight!  As I followed the fence from Exe Head, a farmer dropped down on his quadbike to check I was ok and asked if I was looking for the gate. When he realised where I was actually headed he pointed out trees to head for. He probably thought I was mad being more focused on the two deer peering over the lip of the slope at us! I was reassured ...

Day 17: Brightlycott CS to past Wood and Chains Barrows (17.8 miles)

I set off at 9:30 later than intended but I’d forgotten the clocks changed overnight so hadn't actually slept longer. It was a cold night but peaceful. The stars were great. The tent and sleeping bag are 3 seasons, with the temperature dropping below 3 it’s right on the limit. As I write I’m huddled in my sleeping bag with lots of layers hoping for a better night? Shortly after setting off I had a slight alarm when I saw the was road closed but fortunately the track went off at that junction . Phew! I caught the fresh smell of pines just as I noticed chiffchaffs all around. The trail was largely following the course of the river Yeo, and crossed some lovely old bridges. There were Roosters calling along the valley making me wonder if our chickens had survived suspected invasion of a mink or polecat- our bantam had mysteriously disappeared with a small burrow discovered under the wire... I stopped for elevenses and a rest - water and date slice - the backpack was not my friend this...

Day 16: Instow to Brightlycott Farm Campsite (11.9 miles)

I left the wayfarer Inn at 10:15. I was worried that an unsettled stomach was what impacted yesterday and wanted to allow time to recover. I hoped it really would be a shorter and flat day today apart from the pull up to the campsite. This is where not having rest days takes its toll. As it happens, that is how the day panned out - a respite from some of the heavy going of the last few days and as I write I am sitting in a well pitched tent on a beautiful sunny evening with the longer evening ahead of me now that the clocks have gone forward an hour. That will make things so much easier. I’m at a well organised campsite although there’s only two caravans and me here! The luxury of course is having all facilities - toilet, wash basins, showers and charging points. And a beautiful view over the north Devon hills. I feel very relaxed and looking forward to the next few days now. So how did today proceed? This morning I was alert and taking in my surroundings unlike last night. I enjoyed l...

Day 15: Clovelly to Instow (16 miles)

That seemed like a hard day. My feet feel sore and my legs really didn’t want to work today when going up hill. I think I’d relaxed thinking the most difficult part was over, forgetting that Clovelly to Westward Ho! is actually quite a touch walk - extending then to Bideford and Instow. I had left Clovelly on a sunny morning a bit later than intended, around 9:20. I immediately met Kevin, a carer for his mother with dementia and we shared experiences for quite awhile. Joining Hobby Drive I’d forgotten that whilst it’s a gradual descent over 3 or so miles coming into Clovelly, leaving it it becomes a gradual and persistent climb. And then the undulating hills began - as one group said to me - those slopes are vicious, we don’t want to demoralise you but you’ll find the walk to Westward Ho! hard going. So today became something of a battle of wills, although I wanted to enjoy the final day on SWCP. Hobby Drive cuts through steep slopes - my mind was constantly eyeing up potential cam...

Day 14: Hartland Quay to Clovelly

Now at the end of Day 14, in total, I have walked 210 miles from Penzance to Clovelly! The red line on the map below shows my route so far: Today, Friday 28th March, I left the Hotel at 9:40am after a lovely cooked breakfast to fuel the 7 valleys to negotiate today. You will notice I enjoy the countdown - helps my motivation and focus more than mileage certainly in this kind of terrain. So here goes: ✓ 1 Out of Hartland Quay 9:50am ✓ 2 up to Dyer’s lookout 10:20am And just in case I thought the big valleys were behind me! This was where I had planned to camp the night before with nowhere sheltered from the wind or flat. A good decision made last night. A kestrel goes up as I descend the valley Lundy Island in the background and a ship going past. ✓ 3  Blegberry beach 10:37am Glorious strata at this beach with the shadows accentuating them. Once I pass Hartland Point the landscape and geology will soften so I want to drink up this gloriously rugged scenery. Next a beautiful peace...