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Day 17: Brightlycott CS to past Wood and Chains Barrows (17.8 miles)

I set off at 9:30 later than intended but I’d forgotten the clocks changed overnight so hadn't actually slept longer. It was a cold night but peaceful. The stars were great. The tent and sleeping bag are 3 seasons, with the temperature dropping below 3 it’s right on the limit. As I write I’m huddled in my sleeping bag with lots of layers hoping for a better night?

Shortly after setting off I had a slight alarm when I saw the was road closed but fortunately the track went off at that junction . Phew! I caught the fresh smell of pines just as I noticed chiffchaffs all around. The trail was largely following the course of the river Yeo, and crossed some lovely old bridges. There were Roosters calling along the valley making me wonder if our chickens had survived suspected invasion of a mink or polecat- our bantam had mysteriously disappeared with a small burrow discovered under the wire...

I stopped for elevenses and a rest - water and date slice - the backpack was not my friend this morning. I repacked as I had put food in the bladder sleeve but they had made the pack fat and pulling it away from my body. Now tall and slim as advised I hoped it would be better and with a few adjustments of straps I settled into it again.

I saw lots of buzzards soaring and mewing overhead today. I wasted some time trying to find an exit to a field above lockers mill bridge. I should have believed the signposts rather than the OS map in this case. Point to be remembered. I’ll take it as a reward for that struggle that I then heard the first blackcap of the season - known as the northern nightingale for its beautiful, fluting warbling song. Followed soon after by the similar but more raspy whitethroat.

I was thrilled then to see a pair of possibly goshawks, one chasing the other which was making a staccato medium pitched call swooping past me twice at low altitude through the trees. The warmth of the day brought out a Brimstone and orange tip butterfly as I came down to Loxhore mill. I have seen painted ladies and peacocks in the first couple of days of the trip and then during the last week

At 12:30. I Stopped for hot chocolate and would you believe it, a pack of Quavers! at Bratton Fleming - the shopkeeper donated £10 - more than I’d spent in the shop! At 14:30 I stopped for lunch at the remains of a medieval village site overlooking a deep valley I was about to cross. I wondered what had happened, I suppose most likely the plague.

I was pleased to arrive at Challacombe at 4pm, starting to think I might be able to go further than originally planned. There were lots of young recently born lambs coming up from the village, a charming sight but the ewes were very very cautious of me passing by.

After a section just below wood barrow which was a bit tricky to navigate, a stone track appeared. The route certainly requires some map reading and there is a lot of bog up here but I’ve managed to find a flat spot with lots of dead moor grass which I have used to fill up the gaps between the fly of the tent and the ground to minimise the draught, I hope.

There has been a stunning sunset and a couple of herds of roe deer have been looking at me suspiciously with the stag giving out a warning bark and leading them away. Time to settle down to sleep now hopefully a bit warmer than last night!

















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