After leaving the cottage near Askrigg, we started off from Hawes at 10, my glute was playing up - I needed to remember to take ibuprofen and deep heat 15 mins or so before the walking. We walked across the bridge and through fields to Hardraw where we stooped at the tea room for coffee. This gave time for my glute to settle down so I was much happier on the continuation. There is a pretty steady ascent up towards Great Shunner and Martin came with me until the ascent steepened significantly. I was delighted that there were lots of curlews. Shortly after I entered a conservation area I continued to hear the sound of curlew, black grouse and other ground nesting birds. This reminded me that I had seen the classic white curved tail of a black grouse at the head of Snaizeholme the day before. A lapwing displayed as I was contemplating this. It was pretty cold and as I continued to head up, there were a couple of hail showers which stung my face but made me feel alive and full of inspirati...