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Day 15: Clovelly to Instow (16 miles)

That seemed like a hard day. My feet feel sore and my legs really didn’t want to work today when going up hill. I think I’d relaxed thinking the most difficult part was over, forgetting that Clovelly to Westward Ho! is actually quite a touch walk - extending then to Bideford and Instow.

I had left Clovelly on a sunny morning a bit later than intended, around 9:20. I immediately met Kevin, a carer for his mother with dementia and we shared experiences for quite awhile.

Joining Hobby Drive I’d forgotten that whilst it’s a gradual descent over 3 or so miles coming into Clovelly, leaving it it becomes a gradual and persistent climb. And then the undulating hills began - as one group said to me - those slopes are vicious, we don’t want to demoralise you but you’ll find the walk to Westward Ho! hard going.

So today became something of a battle of wills, although I wanted to enjoy the final day on SWCP. Hobby Drive cuts through steep slopes - my mind was constantly eyeing up potential camping spots but there was no potential until past the memorial bench.

Throughout the walk I heard tree creepers calling, and buzzards soaring over head. But I’m sure that raven is following me - seen one everyday for awhile, and caws as he goes past!

Barton Woods is an ancient woodland that leads to Bucks Cross with beautiful moss clad beeches lining the path. But the walk became something of an obstacle course as there were a lot of fallen trees, some making it seem as though a passage through would be impossible. It was certainly tricky with the backpack.

Bucks Mill is an attractive hamlet and something of a honeypot from the number of people there today even though strictly it’s out of season. But a number of people wanted to know what I was doing and wishing me well.

I arrived at Peppercombe which is about half way to Westward Ho! at 13:25. I met a lady who works for National Trust North Devon and another couple who were keen to reassure me I was ok for time. Eventually, I stopped for lunch at the most northerly end of Peppercombe beach. The undulations continued, and rain threatened. My enthusiasm for taking photos dwindled as I got my waterproofs on and got my head down to get to Instow at a reasonable time. The cut across to Bideford isn’t as far as I thought but in walking on pavements my feet really began to protest, and I was astonished at the length of the cycle path to Instow, reminding me of how my youngest daughter, Maria, and I had suffered what seemed an interminable walk from Braunton Burrows round to Barnstaple, and made ourselves keep going through rather hysterical laughter - good memories.

Having said all that I feel ready to explore new territory and leave SWCP behind. In a way it feels that this is where I really get on with LEJOG. But I’ve arrived here later than I’d hoped, so now to get some dinner and allow my feet to recover …. In time for walking that cycle path from Instow to Barnstaple!!!








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