Day 18: Chains barrow to Wheddon Cross (15.8 miles)

I woke up at 6am after a disturbed night, shivering for what seemed forever but may have been just the first couple of hours until I warmed up and put my waterproof on top of the sleeping bag. I woke with wind on the side of tent as it had veered during night. I will need to check the length of cord to that corner but not now! I was freezing cold so put all the layers I could possibly have, on and gradually sorted packing - had a banana etc as didn’t feel up to lighting the stove, particularly with the wind. As I started to wipe condensation off the tent, to my horror, discovered it was ice. No wonder I was cold! I’ll aim to camp lower down tonight! 

As I followed the fence from Exe Head, a farmer dropped down on his quadbike to check I was ok and asked if I was looking for the gate. When he realised where I was actually headed he pointed out trees to head for. He probably thought I was mad being more focused on the two deer peering over the lip of the slope at us! I was reassured when I continued on that I had actually been on right route with path veering to the right about 100 metres on. But up until it had been pathless.

At 9:45 I stopped above the deep valley of the River Exe by Raven’s Nest, looking back from where I had come from, to the road where a VW camper van had stopped overnight and the occupants had still been in bed! I was now entertained to see a Sainsbury’s van driving past - a sign of civilisation I contemplated somewhat wistfully while chewing my almonds and beef jerky. I’d stopped in the shelter of the wall. The easterly wind remained bitter and I was largely walking into it so I kept my waterproofs on whilst taking off my gilet. 

At 10:35 I stopped again for break at Warren Bridge to take on some more calories by the beautiful young River Exe and to shed the waterproofs - a long uphill stretch coming up! Again, I stopped at Larkbarrow Corner for a brief respite, having passed across the latest section of moorland which although it started with vague sheep/cattle trails, then turned into a grass-worn way, albeit exposed to that buffeting wind. But my energy levels were still way down.

Walking along the road I checked for signal to reach out to the family and decided I’d be more sensible to try to book into a B&B at Wheddon Cross. There was no answer at Exmoor B&B and although I left a message I lost my nerve and used booking.com to make a reservation at the Rest and Be Thankful Inn there, which also showed around £29 cheaper.

I then stopped for lunch having walked over Almsworthy Common at 13:15 in a small hollow near the road crossing, out of the wind. I started feeling sleepy in the shelter and relieved to have accommodation sorted. I finally shook myself awake and set off at 13:45.

I found the layered hedging with young trees growing up from them rather appealing against the broader and wilder landscape, with the silver bark and the cream of the moor grass and Dunkery Beacon ahead - the scene made me wish I could paint like my father.

I arrived at Dunkery Beacon at 15:00 - as this was where I had originally intended to stop for the night so was clearly ahead of schedule. At 500 metres this is the highest I will go until the Black Mountains in a couple of weeks time. I hadn’t expected to see Porlock and then further along in the distance Minehead. I reminisced my first 5 days walking to Barnstaple, with Maria when I set out on the South West Coastal Path. A precious time.

I left at 15:25 and guessed it was roughly an hour or so to the inn 🤞. I’d not factored in dropping into a deep valley - that of the River Avill - and then climbing out again to Wheddon Cross. Enjoying the peace and quiet of the valley, I was surprised by an army helicopter flying right over head - quite a noise! A farmer was busy across the valley in his lambing shed - a potentially stressful and tiring time ensuring all is well. I hope all is going well at Bocketts Farm where Jess, my eldest daughter, lives and works! 

I was getting more tired and sleepy as I approached the steep climb to the village making me realise in reality I hadn’t got much sleep last night. It was definitely survival mode. So I was cheered to hear one of my favourite birds - the blackcap - singing. And I made myself motivated by the thought of a cooked dinner and comfy bed with a shorter walk tomorrow as I’m running ahead of schedule now.  This was definitely a case of mind over matter and obstinate determination.

But I’m here now and had a huge meal by my standards. I can hardly keep my eyes open so here’s to a good night’s sleep!