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Geology highlights: Penzance to St Ives

One of the stand-outs for me about this coastline is the spectacular geology - it’s incredibly varied, with some of the oldest formations I will see until I get up to Scotland. Here is a little summary of the geology that has stood out to me so far. Penzance and Mount’s Bay Mainly  Devonian slates and sandstones  with more recent  alluvial deposits  and  beach sands in the bay, , and the beautiful  St Michael’s Mount  a granite outcrop connected to the mainland by a tidal causeway. Mount’s Bay to Porthcurno  M etamorphosed mudstones and slates  apparently called killas appear along side  granite intrusions  from the larger Land’s End Granite mass which I crossed on the second day. We started to notice striking black “dykes” - exposures of  contact metamorphism , where the granite intruded into the sedimentary rocks. I hadn’t been aware of these before but they are called  hornfels . There are also  quartz veins  ...

Day 6: Porthtowan to Holywell (14 miles)

Starting at 10am, a steep climb out of Porthtowan brought me back onto the high cliffs overlooking the beach.  Heading over the tops Wheal Charlotte came into view set against the blossoming gorse - a classic sight.  It still looked some distance off, and before long I was heading down the zig zags to Chapel Porth valley.  I was taken by surprise as I climbed around the corner from the valley to see Wheal Charlotte close by with the turquoise sea and rolling waves below.  Onward now for pretty easy walking on the tops, wanting to keep pace so I could meet Martin if possible walking out from Perranporth. Again I seemed to reach St Agnes Head with the coastguard station above the path much faster than I thought.  I was trying to work out whether the birds I was seeing were all gulls or if there were kittiwakes among them. I’m not confident yet of identifying them, though I am of fulmars. Winding my way down to Trevaunance Cove, I was surprised by a deep crack open...

Day 5: Hayle to Porthtowan (16.5 miles)

Today (Day 5) I started from Hayle Estuary, walking along rippled sand looking like turtle backs in places below cliffs before coming to sand dunes at back where sand levelled out but still soft and a bit difficult to walk on until closer to Gwithian. Striking mud cliffs then came into view with old sand dunes on top - it was here last time that I scrambled down (with some difficulty) to get onto the beach having found sand dunes hard work! Looking at them today that was a risky scramble - they are quite high. Then a surprise - glorious high cliffs with great folding and stacks close in. Spotting a shepherds hut we stopped for coffee and bread and butter pudding (with chocolate!!!) sheltering in front of a sand dune. I then continued on to Godrevy Point where I spotted shags nesting in the cliffs before admiring the seals hailed up at Mutton Cove. The next section is pretty easy going with a long stretch surfaced. I stopped for lunch in a small grassy dell overlooking hell’s mouth, adm...

Days 3 & 4: Botallack to Hayle Estuary

 At the end of Day 4 I have now clocked up 58 miles (according to my phone). These last two days have been great walking without my backpack. Over the next few days I'll take a look at trying to reduce the weight of my backpack so I can work my way up to the full load for once Martin has left. Yesterday (Day 3) featured hail, sun and, a stiff cold easterly wind but today (Day 4) the glorious sun returned despite a strong bitter wind.So far, wrens, Cornish choughs, and stonechats have kept me company, with a beautiful wheatear leading me along for awhile on Day 4. And the seals have made an appearance with their heads up in the water while they sleep. Day 3: Botallack to Zennor Day 4: Zennor to Hayle Estuary

Ready, Steady, GO!

On Saturday 15th March I started my big adventure! 2 days in and I have completed the first 32 miles from Penzance to Botallack. I had planned to walk 12 miles each day but my phone says I've done more like 16. The weather has been fantastic but I am very tired. Clearly I am still building my fitness up after the op but I  a sure I will get there step-by-step! The scenery is everything and more than I remembered. This part of the South West Coastal Path is so beautiful but it is certainly tough walking. Tomorrow is planned to be a difficult stretch from Botallack to St Ives but Martin will come and see how I am doing at Zennor and we will go from there. I'm going to have a break from the backpack tomorrow to help me along as it felt very heavy today.

Three weeks to go....

 Time seems to have flown by.  6 weeks ago I was barely walking a mile.  Now, I am up to 14.5 miles - and 4 miles with my 12kg backpack. My challenge now is to start doing the longer walks with the backpack, but I am concerned not to go too fast while my body continues to strengthen and heal. At the same time, I am frantically getting the garden ready for 100 days of neglect, ensuring as far as I can that I help those at work prepare for my prolonged absence (although my extended sick leave proved a good run-up to that) - and seeing friends and family before I go. I am certainly going to miss my family - my three precious daughters and two grandchildren. And my father, who I know will be glued to the maps watching my progress over the coming weeks and months. I think we are all relieved that Martin is coming down to Cornwall with me for the first 10 days to support me as required - either picking me up early if I tire - or relieving me of the backpack for awhile.  ...

Planning

Whilst I've been recovering from the op, I've had plenty of time to plan my walk.  I had originally intended to simply stop when tired, camping most of the way and booking a bed and breakfast once a week or so. My nerve has deserted me!  I have now broken the walk down into roughly 12 mile days, and I've booked campsites, bed and breakfasts, and ear-marked possible wild camping spots. For much of the time, this tent (Durston Xmid Pro 2P) which I trialled on the Dales Highway in July, will be my home: I have to say, getting stuck into the planning has made me more and more excited that the walk is possible and will actually happen now, with renewed determination to get myself fit and well for the start of the walk. I'm currently walking about a mile a day - sounds awful considering where I was before the op, but never mind.  The target is to increase that over the next 8 weeks to 12 miles, gradually adding weight to the backpack as I fully heal and gain strength. ...

Setback!

  Having had a great 2024 from the perspective of long distance walks including Pembrokeshire Coastal Path, Dales Highway and Cotswold Way, I didn't bank on having major abdominal surgery in November which led to 12 weeks recovery and a pause in walking and carrying any weight. A real frustration and impatience to get back on schedule.  But my consultant, physio and hospital staff couldn't have been more supportive.

Why?

My mother died on 2nd July 2024, after a prolonged struggle with advanced dementia, in a world she found confusing and frustrating. It would have been her idea of a living hell. Alzheimer’s Society is working towards a world where dementia no longer devastates lives, by giving help to those living with dementia today, and providing hope for the future. I walked the Dales Highway when she died seeking solace and peace camping in the hills. The idea of backpacking Lands End to John O'Groats (LEJOG) had been long in gestation but this is what clinched it for me. 1200 miles over 100 days following some of the trails I’ve walked before - the Pennine Way and part of the South West Coastal Path, and camping most of the way. As I raised £20k during these 2 walks in 2020 and 2022, I have decided to aim towards that target once more. I hope you will feel moved to follow and support me on this 100 day trek, as I walk in memory of my mother whose plight brought home to me just how cruel dement...

Choosing the Route

  Since I was first diagnosed with CLL, and started long distance walking, I've been fortunate enough to walk the North and South Downs Ways (2018), the Norfolk Coastal Path (2019), Coast to Coast (2021), the Menorcan Coastal Path and the Ridgeway (2023), the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path, the Dales Highway and the Cotswold Way (2024). In amongst those, I walked the Pennine Way (2020) and the South West Coastal Path (2022) for charity.   In walking these routes, I realised that I love walking on my own, enjoy being immersed in the surroundings around me, able to go at my own pace, stop, observe, and simply be. I love the high moors and mountains but also our beautiful rugged coast - especially the north Cornwall coastline. I very much wanted to re-walk that part of the South West Coastal Path but extended to Penzance - a stretch with which I had been particularly taken.  I also wanted to re-walk the Pennine Way - eventually postponing this so as to incorporate it into t...