Day 5: Hayle to Porthtowan (16.5 miles)

Today (Day 5) I started from Hayle Estuary, walking along rippled sand looking like turtle backs in places below cliffs before coming to sand dunes at back where sand levelled out but still soft and a bit difficult to walk on until closer to Gwithian.

Striking mud cliffs then came into view with old sand dunes on top - it was here last time that I scrambled down (with some difficulty) to get onto the beach having found sand dunes hard work! Looking at them today that was a risky scramble - they are quite high. Then a surprise - glorious high cliffs with great folding and stacks close in.

Spotting a shepherds hut we stopped for coffee and bread and butter pudding (with chocolate!!!) sheltering in front of a sand dune. I then continued on to Godrevy Point where I spotted shags nesting in the cliffs before admiring the seals hailed up at Mutton Cove.

The next section is pretty easy going with a long stretch surfaced. I stopped for lunch in a small grassy dell overlooking hell’s mouth, admiring the gulls, with clouds of jackdaws drifting across now and then, hearing a loud crank I was then joined by a gorgeous raven who proceeded to share my lunch. Not interested in mango but loved the cheddars!

A couple of steeper valleys - notably Carvannal with a beautiful waterfall - led me to the cliffs above Portreath where Martin had just arrived. A steep grassy slope down into a small valley /harbour before them coming to Portreath oneself where I had hot chocolate before leaving Martin once again who’s leg was bothering him again, to get myself back on schedule at Porthowan.

Steep climb up the road and then round the less than attractive Nancekuke disused airfield and a steep valley and I was feeling buoyed by the hot chocolate keeping a good pace as I entered area of dramatic coloured cliffs and the deep Sally’s Bottom as the sun started to drop down and colour. Overlooking Porthtowan I looked for Martin on the beach and dropping down went the wrong side to him. Seeing him look for me I decided to cross the shallow river, discovering that my right boot was indeed not fully waterproof now. We then went down onto the beach to watch the sun starting to set with dramatic waves and surfers.

And finally a beautiful orange red sunset over Gwithian as we drove back to St Ives completed an excellent day.

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Day 101: Keiss to John O’Groats - The Final Day (14.6 miles)

Being the last day, it felt important to wear my old beastly friend of the trek - the large rucksack. I was actually surprised how comfortable - and comforting it was! Maria and I set off with Martin at 9:30, letting some heavy rain go through first. We would have to watch ourselves on the cliffs as the forecast was for 45 miles per hour gusts from the west. Within minutes we could see Keiss castle before us but for Maria, I think seeing seals bobbing up in the water was more interesting, not least because Georgie was desperate to see them too. Martin turned back and we told him to let Georgie know. The path was overgrown with wet vegetation, and it wasn’t long before Maria reported that the inside of her boots were starting to get wet. It wouldn’t take too long before mine followed (by 10:20!): with rotting stitching it was the reason I had originally decided to swop over to my new boots all those days ago down in St Ives, Cornwall. Oystercatchers were clearly alarmed by our proximity...

Choosing the Route

Since I was first diagnosed with CLL, and started long distance walking, I've been fortunate enough to walk the North and South Downs Ways (2018), the Norfolk Coastal Path (2019), Coast to Coast (2021), the Menorcan Coastal Path and the Ridgeway (2023), the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path, the Dales Highway and the Cotswold Way (2024). In amongst those, I walked the Pennine Way (2020) and the South West Coastal Path (2022) for charity. In walking these routes, I realised that I love walking on my own, enjoy being immersed in the surroundings around me, able to go at my own pace, stop, observe, and simply be. I love the high moors and mountains but also our beautiful rugged coast - especially the north Cornwall coastline. I very much wanted to re-walk that part of the South West Coastal Path but extended to Penzance - a stretch with which I had been particularly taken. I also wanted to re-walk the Pennine Way - eventually postponing this so as to incorporate it into t...

I’ve done it!

After 101 phenomenal days of walking and an unbelievable 1346.7 miles, I finally arrived at John O’Groats this afternoon. I am so pleased and so relieved. As you might imagine, the family and I are spending the evening celebrating, and I’ve been banned from writing my blog tonight! So a blog post will be coming out tomorrow with more detail on the eventful Day 101, but for now if you will forgive me, I shall kick off my boots, relax and enjoy a glass of prosecco!

Walking Lands End to John O'Groats 2025 for Alzheimer's Society

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