Skip to main content

Day 6: Porthtowan to Holywell (14 miles)

Starting at 10am, a steep climb out of Porthtowan brought me back onto the high cliffs overlooking the beach.  Heading over the tops Wheal Charlotte came into view set against the blossoming gorse - a classic sight.  It still looked some distance off, and before long I was heading down the zig zags to Chapel Porth valley.  I was taken by surprise as I climbed around the corner from the valley to see Wheal Charlotte close by with the turquoise sea and rolling waves below.  Onward now for pretty easy walking on the tops, wanting to keep pace so I could meet Martin if possible walking out from Perranporth. Again I seemed to reach St Agnes Head with the coastguard station above the path much faster than I thought.  I was trying to work out whether the birds I was seeing were all gulls or if there were kittiwakes among them. I’m not confident yet of identifying them, though I am of fulmars.

Winding my way down to Trevaunance Cove, I was surprised by a deep crack opening up to the right of the path - clearly old mining activity but given all the warning signs elsewhere I was surprised this had escaped notice.

I was pleased to have some time to explore the Cove having passed this by in 2022 without really taking it in. With the tide out this time a beautiful sandy beach was revealed, and I lingered hoping that Martin might appear. As with so much of the Path so far, signal has been intermittent at best, absent for much of the time. My iPhone kept on requesting to send location by satellite and search g for mobile signal so I had taken to turning on airplane mode to save battery as this was by far the worst culprit - followed by photos…..

Martin appeared and we agreed as it was now 12:15 we would go down onto the beach and have an early lunch. The quartzite intrusions here were marked - our lunchtime boulder being a prime example. We were fascinated by the fact that the harbour here had failed I think 3 times before they gave up in the late 19th century - which has probably done the cove a favour as there is now a surf school and at least 20 if not 30 mainly women going for a swim.


The wind continues to come from ENE and is really quite bitter - although I’d put on extra layers as soon as I sat down I was feeling chilled and we agreed to get moving and have a coffee at Perranporth.

This next section, from the point of view of geology and industrial archaeology has to be one of my favourites and I was delighted it was sunny so I could get some good photos with depth at Cligger Head.

Again, after a sharp climb out of the Cove (it wouldn’t be the SWCP if it wasn’t!) it was pretty level walking. The colourful cliffs of Cligger Head came into view and I warned Martin he would have to be patient as I would be stopping regularly for photos.

Why is it that I am so excited by this section? I have always been fascinated by gullies and badlands ever since doing my degree and research in SE Spain - and these cliffs are superb.  A kind of miniature Grand Canyon I suppose - but yes I know these are sea cliffs so the comparison doesn’t really work! Never mind, hopefully you get my drift.

And then the geology - the periglacial head here is remarkable and must have been created in a high energy environment - some of the rocks are close to boulder size.  And then the classic black striations in the granite. 

A steady descent down to Perranporth now and a welcome mug of hot chocolate (this could get to be a habit) and my legs are super-charged for the final stretch along the spectacular Perran Sands and Ligger Head.  the caves and geology of the cliffs give added interesting, with a number of people similarly exploring, and as I reach the stretch where the cliffs fall away tons replaced by sand dunes I head out towards the waves admiring the patterns in the sand and water.

The exit off the beach is by a la old mine shaft and quarry which I hadn’t noticed before, and then a sharp ascent through the dunes back up onto the cliff tops and heading around Ligger Head. Past some more mine workings and the very dejected looking old army barracks, and so round the corner as the view opens up of Holywell Bay used for many of the iconic scenes from Poldark. Seeing Martin waiting on top of one of the dunes I couldn't resist joining him to make the most of the views …… there’s heavy rain forecast tomorrow. At least that will test out my waterproofs before Martin goes!    




Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Choosing the Route

  Since I was first diagnosed with CLL, and started long distance walking, I've been fortunate enough to walk the North and South Downs Ways (2018), the Norfolk Coastal Path (2019), Coast to Coast (2021), the Menorcan Coastal Path and the Ridgeway (2023), the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path, the Dales Highway and the Cotswold Way (2024). In amongst those, I walked the Pennine Way (2020) and the South West Coastal Path (2022) for charity.   In walking these routes, I realised that I love walking on my own, enjoy being immersed in the surroundings around me, able to go at my own pace, stop, observe, and simply be. I love the high moors and mountains but also our beautiful rugged coast - especially the north Cornwall coastline. I very much wanted to re-walk that part of the South West Coastal Path but extended to Penzance - a stretch with which I had been particularly taken.  I also wanted to re-walk the Pennine Way - eventually postponing this so as to incorporate it into t...

Ready, Steady, GO!

On Saturday 15th March I started my big adventure! 2 days in and I have completed the first 32 miles from Penzance to Botallack. I had planned to walk 12 miles each day but my phone says I've done more like 16. The weather has been fantastic but I am very tired. Clearly I am still building my fitness up after the op but I  a sure I will get there step-by-step! The scenery is everything and more than I remembered. This part of the South West Coastal Path is so beautiful but it is certainly tough walking. Tomorrow is planned to be a difficult stretch from Botallack to St Ives but Martin will come and see how I am doing at Zennor and we will go from there. I'm going to have a break from the backpack tomorrow to help me along as it felt very heavy today.

Planning

Whilst I've been recovering from the op, I've had plenty of time to plan my walk.  I had originally intended to simply stop when tired, camping most of the way and booking a bed and breakfast once a week or so. My nerve has deserted me!  I have now broken the walk down into roughly 12 mile days, and I've booked campsites, bed and breakfasts, and ear-marked possible wild camping spots. For much of the time, this tent (Durston Xmid Pro 2P) which I trialled on the Dales Highway in July, will be my home: I have to say, getting stuck into the planning has made me more and more excited that the walk is possible and will actually happen now, with renewed determination to get myself fit and well for the start of the walk. I'm currently walking about a mile a day - sounds awful considering where I was before the op, but never mind.  The target is to increase that over the next 8 weeks to 12 miles, gradually adding weight to the backpack as I fully heal and gain strength. ...