Day 21: Quantocks to Goathurst (7.2 miles)

I was so warm last night that I was actually removing layers of clothing by 11pm. But with the dawn chill I was shivering and the layers went back on. 

At 4:30am the rain started again and even though I have a thermarest neoair elite sleeping mat I could feel the cold seeping up from the ground so lay on top of my waterproof in addition.

With time I warmed up and dozed back to sleep hoping for the rain/drizzle to stop. By 7am, I'd had no luck so I started to get ready to move on. As it was very quiet here and out of the way I held off a bit longer to see if I had the chance to put the tent down dry. I wasn’t too worried as it was a short walk today to Goathurst and you’re not to arrive until 14:30. I did some writing and sorting stuff. The rain eased at last at 8:30, so I downed tent and set off around 9:15 with a bit of mist clearing quite quickly.  

Rising to the top the mist below in the valleys was very atmospheric. There wasn’t a soul around. Peace. I reached the trig point at 386 metres: Wills Neck - there must have been a view there somewhere but the mist masked it all. A skylark greeted me with its song and today, I smiled.

More misty views as I continued along the ridge but I could see more and more - the Quantocks really are beautiful. I met a lady with a friendly 7 year old black lab who patiently waited staring at his ball while we chatted. Having just lost her father, we talked awhile about the grieving process. I hoped it helped her as it did me.

I came across some more ponies grooming each other - a picture of trust and contentment. I was thrilled coming down off the Quantocks walking through through the fields of red soil to see a yellowhammer chirping in the top of the hedge — not its full song but I haven’t seen one for a long time and forgotten have attractive they are with their yellow and chestnut brown plumage.  Some linnets flew over head, tweeting as they went.

At 11am, the sun finally started to break through but it took quite awhile before temperatures started to lift. I walked down a ploughed field with no allowance for path for walkers and I notice an old and overgrown sunken path with trees fallen in to one side - a pity it’s hasn’t been maintained which would please both farmer and walker. This led to a stream crossing with apparently nowhere to go. A vague path by the wooden fence squeezed up to the road not helped by someone allowing their compost to overflow onto it including a rejected Christmas tree.  I bought a book called the Lost Paths during my recovery - a fascinating read. This path could soon become one…. 

Emerging on the other side of the road to a pleasant grassy field I stopped for elevenses and set off shortly after 11:30. And come to a stile clearly not designed for backpackers…. Just two fences to climb over.

Walking up a lush green field I met some rather lovely sheep - a big flock in fact - who were curious and came close as I tried to extract a thorn from one of my socks. I felt strongly scrutinised all the way to the exit stile. I finally took my fleece off at 12:15 with a steep ascent ahead of me rather than because of the temperature.  I’ve not experienced the high temperatures that I understand the UK has had elsewhere - probably as well as the low to mid teens suit me well for walking.

Exiting from the wrong field onto the road down to Enmore (oops) I see a magnificent bull and his cows staring me down. I’m not sure how I would have felt if I’d needed to go in that particular field! I stopped at the Tynte Arms at Enmore run by a couple in their 80’s.  They’ve certainly seen some changes, especially since COVID. I was one of only three customers that lunchtime but the landlord said a Wednesday could be as busy as their old weekends sometimes. He told me they’d done a lot of shorter walks on both the north and the south coast, here starting from the Point. I suddenly twigged that he meant Hinckley. Locally apparently it’s not called that - just “The Point”.

The pub is run as though time stopped in the ‘70s. The music started with a compilation from the Sound of Music and moved on to light opera, Les Miserables and Wagner - I should have realised it was BBC Classic. Not what you would normally hear in a pub but suited me perfectly. And oddly no dogs were allowed. I’ve noticed that with a few pubs round here although the landlord explained he was a dog man himself. He explained it was they largely ran the pub for catering and it just wasn’t right to have dogs in there.

It was a delight to get to Secret Valley glamping - staying in a “wigwam” and with the sun shining as I arrived at 14:30, I’ve had plenty of time to dry everything out, and enjoy the sun.  There’s a large kitchen equipped with everything I can use to cook the lamb koftas, sweet corn and baked beans tonight as well as bacon butties in the morning. And there’s a heater in the cabin too so I’ll be warm tonight.

There’s a cold forecast tomorrow so I’ve asked whether the shepherd hut at the next campsite is available - it is, so I’ve gone for that.  I’ll go to Millets tomorrow passing through Bridgwater to pickup something warm for Sunday night when I’m camped on the Mendips - predicting freezing temperatures so I want to be prepared!

I’ll sign off now and let you know how I get on tomorrow!