Day 22: Goathurst to Wedmore (18.5 miles)

Although the cabin was very comfortable my mind was buzzing and it took awhile to switch off. I knew I had a long day ahead and all depended on how clear the paths were. The facilities at Secret Valley were excellent and I can’t recommend it enough. With a fully equipped kitchen it was a real boon for me.  With having dried everything well the night before it really just left me to cook the bacon (thick!) supplied with rolls etc and get going before 8:25am.

Passing through Goathurst I was sorry to see that the community had to resort to keeping  St Edward’s church locked with limited hours of opening. Offset by seeing some beautiful owl carvings just opposite. 

As I turned off the road a roe deer ran ahead of me, the day still had that early morning feel to it. I missed a path off to the left, but realised quickly, crossing stream and entering a field of young corn with wild garlic growing on the stream bank - but beware young arum lily (lords and ladies) which can grow with it and is toxic! I noticed the oaks starting to come into leaf, with Chiff chaffs dominating  the birdsong as I passed by a field of …. solar panels!

As I crossed a rather narrow and precarious plank across a stream, four jays flew over head making a rather squealing noise - I suspect a territorial dispute - one I’ve not seen before. Meanwhile a robin cheerfully chirruped at my side and green woodpeckers cackled in the woods with wild garlic flowering beneath the coppiced trees. It occurred to me that the soil here was still very red, and as I did so a greater spotted woodpecker flew up into the loose branches of a willow with its very red throat - a rather bizarre coincidence.

I enjoyed walking over the levels more than I expected, and especially the Meads (rather grandly named “eco park”, but was pleased to come into Bridgwater just after 10.  My resolve not to linger having stopped to pick up some supplies failed on me as I passed a small café - I’ve missed my cappuccinos, and was pleased when a couple were interested and promised a donation. I had a long chat with guy selling the homeless campaign magazine, “big issue”. He almost told me off for not having the “proper” equipment. He has - wait for it - a glamping pod and wood burner, both bought in sales for a few 100 quid.  Maybe I should reconsider my ultralight approach! He branded how intolerant Cornwall is of the homeless.

My key objective in town was Millets - and the two staff were fantastic help - silk liner and foil blanket purchased and so queried what was being charged and was told it was fine and given a sincere good luck and cheerio. It was as I walked away I worked out they’d given me a 25% discount.

Now the big effort of the day was: 

- the railway bridge 

- a stile with large step where my knee was almost not strong enough to straighten to get me over it with the backpack and the …. 

- Shock, horror, all those steps for the bridge over the M5 😂😂

Joking apart this was the longest walk of the trip so far at 18.5 miles, but apart from a small pull up to the campsite, it was flat, and I was able to get to my destination comfortably by 17:30.

After Bridgwater the soil changed to rock hard grey clay - ploughed up into furrows that would be murder to walk across - no problem keeping walkers to the path around the field edge here!

I saw a number of speckled woods as I walked along a grassy track and a flock of goldfinches twittered overhead whilst I heard what I thought was a red kite calling. A kestrel then came into view small white butterflies flew around me on a quite frenetic manner.

I stopped for lunch at 13:00 at one of the large Somerset drains (Bradney Bridge). Although it was sunny, there was still a coolish breeze. While I ate I continued to listen to the omnipresent chiffchaffs! As I came away from Bawdrip I passed two beautiful horses one grey and shy the other black and particularly friendly and soft muzzle. A buzzard was being mobbed by a couple of rooks -  I’ve never understood why they do that and why the buzzard doesn’t attack! 

The delicate aroma of muck spreading was pervading the day - the farmers are busy! Walking through Cossington, it was nice to see how everyone’s garden was starting to bloom: narcissi, Scilla, tulips, magnolia and flowering cherries, and I noticed that around here most of the trees were starting to burst into leaf.

I caught sight of Glastonbury Tor through a barn full of dairy cattle - all that I’ve seen round here seem to be in superb condition. I saw a number of pairs of swans grazing in the meadows and what looked like a farmer trying to herd  6-12 cows and calves along to much confusion - it wasn’t going well!

As I took a photo down one of the drains as a water rail flew across and then a couple of snipe. With their funny “ca-atch” sound! As I walked along one of the smaller drains I saw the first tortoiseshell butterfly of the season. Blackcaps were singing - one of which came to inspect me with cocked head before flitting away into the undergrowth.

I came to the impressive  Golden Corner Drain and Pumping Station - vital infrastructure to prevent a repeat of the appalling Somerset Level floods of 2013-2014. It was a sobering moment when I saw the Spring High Tide mark on the Environment Agency building and realised just how critical it is that this infrastructure works.

As I turned onto a smaller drain a pair of wigeon flew off. Gradually cattle changed to sheep grazing and as I turned the corner apparently here were old Roman saltworks. There were some long lanes to walk but then a lovely surprise -  a large flock of mute swans in the lush grass field by the road; breathtaking.

Walking down through the levels along a drive I came across a group of young men digging out a Land Rover which had got stuck down to the front axle in the sticky mud during the winter.  They had clearly been there awhile - I had visions of them being there in the morning!

I was relieved to arrive at Castle Farm campsite, a charming and small site with cabins and where I was to stay tonight - a gorgeous old shepherd hut. I’m looking forward to a warmer night than in the tent - but that will come tomorrow!

Within minutes of arriving, I was thrilled to see an old colleague, Rollo, arrive in his car. He had been determined to see me while in the SW and when he heard I’d got smash and sardines lined up for supper, took me to the Swan in Wedmore for proper food and drink. Rollo - thank you, and it was so good to catch up.