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Day 54: Langdon Beck to Dufton (14.3 miles)

I left just after 9:30 having sorted out payment for our second Scottish cottage following a re-route decision. I love this part of the world and Martin had gone home reluctantly having also wanted to re-walk this section- it has to be one of the most scenic and wild on the Pennine Way. It didn’t disappoint - this was a superb day. I was lucky. The weather again was perfect for walking with sunny periods. I re-joined the Pennine Way and passed through an impressive herd of “panda” cows - a seriously handsome bull and lots of calves but I had no issues - the bull was far too interested in a cow on heat! And I was fascinated by the dynamic of the herd. In the next field there was a less excited herd and my attention was drawn to lots of violas with a range of colours dominated by mauve, and what I think were wood anemones. There were plenty of lapwings and oystercatchers again - great to see and hear! As I started walking up the Tees towards the Falcon Clints, a hare ran speedily across ...

Day 53: Clove Lodge to Langdon Beck (16.5 miles)

Martin was going home today, so we had some sorting of supplies to do before leaving the hotel. We drove over to Clove Lodge and set out at 10:10. We didn't get very far before arriving at the Clove Lodge Coffee and tea shop which was well set up and we enjoyed speaking to the owner who is also a keen walker. As we left two young men heavily laden with backpacks arrived. They had stayed overnight at the shooting hut with shelter that I’d checked out yesterday. They were frozen and said it was incredibly cold during the night. I was sorry for them but greatly relieved I hadn’t camped there as planned. Martin turned around at 10:30 having gone past Blackton reservoir and the glamping setup at Birkhat. A tearful parting on my part - again...I hate goodbyes. There were two ridges to surmount before getting to Middleton with plenty of sharp undulations.   On the second reservoir (Grassholme) there were 2 male and 1 female Wigeon on reservoir along with a common sandpiper. I was imp...

Day 52: Keld to Clove Lodge (16.4 miles)

 A difficult start to the day as it meant saying a tearful goodbye to Jacqui and Mal. I hate goodbyes. Martin walked out with me up to one of the old barns and then turned back in order to walk out to me from Tan Hill. We enjoyed exploring the Kisdon waterfall before we really got going, and I spotted a dipper there. The views across the valley were beautiful, and the walking conditions excellent. I waved back to Butt House as promised. At the brow of the hill, before a fairly level section running parallel to the road going to Tan Hill, I could spot Martin as he drove up the valley. Another steep section took me through an old mining area including a cutting where minerals would have been washed out leaving a gully behind. As I reached the final level section too the pub Martin appeared and we walked together seeing pochards on water just before tan hill. We enjoyed a coffee at this quirky and popular pub before parting once again. Martin went to explore and do some shopping at Ba...

Day 51: Hawes to Keld (13.6 miles)

After leaving the cottage near Askrigg, we started off from Hawes at 10, my glute was playing up - I needed to remember to take ibuprofen and deep heat 15 mins or so before the walking. We walked across the bridge and through fields to Hardraw where we stooped at the tea room for coffee. This gave time for my glute to settle down so I was much happier on the continuation. There is a pretty steady ascent up towards Great Shunner and Martin came with me until the ascent steepened significantly. I was delighted that there were lots of curlews. Shortly after I entered a conservation area I continued to hear the sound of curlew, black grouse and other ground nesting birds. This reminded me that I had seen the classic white curved tail of a black grouse at the head of Snaizeholme the day before. A lapwing displayed as I was contemplating this. It was pretty cold and as I continued to head up, there were a couple of hail showers which stung my face but made me feel alive and full of inspirati...