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Day 52: Keld to Clove Lodge (16.4 miles)

 A difficult start to the day as it meant saying a tearful goodbye to Jacqui and Mal. I hate goodbyes. Martin walked out with me up to one of the old barns and then turned back in order to walk out to me from Tan Hill. We enjoyed exploring the Kisdon waterfall before we really got going, and I spotted a dipper there.

The views across the valley were beautiful, and the walking conditions excellent. I waved back to Butt House as promised. At the brow of the hill, before a fairly level section running parallel to the road going to Tan Hill, I could spot Martin as he drove up the valley.

Another steep section took me through an old mining area including a cutting where minerals would have been washed out leaving a gully behind. As I reached the final level section too the pub Martin appeared and we walked together seeing pochards on water just before tan hill.

We enjoyed a coffee at this quirky and popular pub before parting once again. Martin went to explore and do some shopping at Barnard’s Castle for my supplies. The moor was remarkably dry making easy going across Sleightholme and I was delighted to see a golden plover who continually flitted ahead of me for some 10 minutes making a high pitched sound almost like a frog.

I reached Frumming Beck Bridge at 13:18 where in 2020 Martin and I had sheltered for lunch feeling very wet and soggy but this time I carried on a bit longer so I could get a good view back up the Beck. I wrote up my notes from yesterday as I’d been too busy socialising last night to do it! But then realised that despite putting on extra layers the wind had chilled me so I dawned on my balaclava and thick gloves to warm up.

As I continued there were lots of Lapwings pewwitting and curlews calling. Such a pleasure. And as a passed the farm just before the bridge to the beck a couple of greylag flew past to join some dozen others by the stream.

I started to hear the noise of the A66 but first approached God’s bridge - just before this 5 waders similar in size to oystercatcher - smart brown, black and white markings in flight, went past and I was keen to check them out later. I crossed a very dry God’s bridge at 15:25 and made my way up to the road tunnel, greeted by the family and 3 sheepdogs at the farm as I went by.

There are two significant ridges to get over before you get to Clove Lodge - with a small shooting lodge and a shelter on the side in the valley between. A walker asked me when he would get to the A66 as he thought this was where it was - he had to get to Tan Hill and was getting fed up.

I spotted Martin at the crest of the ridge lying back looking at his phone so pressed on having just thought of stopping for some cake. He had also spoken to the same walker and it was clear he was going to get to Tan Hill pretty late now.

We pressed on again - Clove Lodge comes into view at the last minute so can be somewhat frustrating - it feels like you’ll never get there and that is when the worst ground appears which was ok today but was some of the worst bog we had in 2020. It was a relief to see the car and head to Langdon Beck Hotel - newly refurbished by the new owner Jane in 2022 and an absolute delight.

I was thrilled when Jane pulled out the book on Flowers on Teeside so I was able to confirm that the pink flowers I had seen at my wild camp above Malham were Birds Eye primrose. Jane also told me to look out for gentians when I walk over to Dufton on Day 54.







Location: Barnard Castle DL12, UK

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