Day 98: Lybster to Whaligoe Steps (9.3 miles)

Having checked out of our Lairg base, we arrived back at Lybster and set out at 11am. I’d slept restlessly during the night tracking Georgie, Maria and Jordan’s progress up from Surrey. I couldn’t wait to see them!

The path took us out of the village and down steep steps into the first geo. Making our way out of the geo the view back south across to Dunbeath Castle and mountains in the far distance was beautiful.

The path was lumpy and overgrown for awhile, which Martin didn’t enjoy, but we were relieved to arrive at a section where the vegetation had been cut. Smooth going for a while, we arrived at The Bridge overlooking a stunning group of stacks and arches, and here Martin decided to turn back. He was to meet the incoming party at 15:00 at Whaligoe Steps and didn’t want to be late.

As it was only 12:15, I chose to continue and was delighted to find waterfalls at the head of the geo. I chose to cross low down rather than over the footbridge to enjoy the view up the waterfalls.

Fulmars and guillemots populated the stacks, but I also spotted razorbills. There weren’t any kittiwakes which made me more confident that I hadn’t mistakenly missed them in the past.

I was rather horrified to see a litter of egg shells, possibly guillemot, stolen by gulls or possibly the great Skuas which again I was more confident were patrolling the coast.

I was much more aware now of the raised wave cut platforms and beaches along the coast, evident as I looked back to see Martin in the distance just setting off after having his lunch. I noticed an Angus brown flit across the path. A discrete but handsome butterfly.

I passed by a number of notable geos and in particular Clyth Harbour - accessible by sea rather than road, with a substantial but ruined herring processing plant.

I stopped short of Clyth Lighthouse at 13.00 on the high cliffs looking down onto a wave cut platform, with guillemots and razorbills fishing in the inlet between that and the cliff. A couple of handsome black headed gulls swam along side. I was a bit confused as the guillemots looked similar though smaller than the shags there. I then realised - they were black guillemots!

I felt at peace on the cliff edge here, sharing the space with a couple of fulmars nesting near me. A rock pipit landed by me and noticed me with surprise looking a little uncertain. It fluffed its furthers and then nimbly and casually lifted off and caught an insect mid-flight and vanished over the cliff. What I have loved on this walk is realising that small but distinct things can happen simply by staying still. A cormorant flew close by and I could see every detail of its plumage. A fulmar did the same unaware or not bothered by me sitting there. Just as I was leaving I saw a grey seal prowling in the water amongst the seaweed - I wondered what it was up to.

I passed by the lighthouse, now a holiday let, and saw ten razorbills on the water. Going forward, rabbits were profuse and so were their holes! I had to watch my step!

I rolled under a fence to take a proper look at the Stack of Mid Clyth and heard and then saw a stressed peregrine falcon mobbing the gulls and then turning its attention on me. Clearly it had a nest near by.

As I came to the northern side, an impressive sea arch came into view. This was another stunning stretch of coastline.

I admired the Gunn castle ruin but by now was restless to see my daughters - as I came through some thick gorse and up to two chapels, Georgie and then Maria appeared to laughter and hugs, with the lads (Jordan and Martin) following behind.  

With some hilarity, we zig-zagged towards Whaligoe Steps with all of us somewhat distracted with catching up.  But we arrived at the viewpoint to the steps - looking down on the little harbour and impressive waterfall. A far better view than going down the 300 steps!

Arriving at the cars, Jordan went with Martin while I went with Georgie and Maria via Wick’s Tesco, to our very lovely harbour house at Keiss. I’ll leave you to imagine the reunion and celebrations we would have over the next few days, bearing in mind I still had 3 days walking, which will be duly reported!