Martin and I agreed to have a relaxed day today, it being Sunday and Father’s Day. After a leisurely start, and an initial explore of the village, we got down to Golspie from Lairg at 11am. We parked again down a beautiful lane with what we felt were distinctly French looking estate houses. Martin later found out that they were designed that way in keeping with the French styled chateau that is the Dunrobin Castle. Martin walked out with me to a bench and then turned back to take a look at Dunrobin Castle.
I continued along the path walking close to the coastline and very much enjoyed being by the sea. I was then enchanted by my first glimpse of the castle. It really is like a fairy tale. Although I wasn’t able to go into the garden, I was able to look up to it through the central gates and hoped Martin would go inside (which he duly did).
The path was easy going and led to the fabulous Carn Liath - a reasonably well-preserved iron-age home which I thoroughly enjoyed exploring.
I was just getting in my stride when I looked down and realised one of the lace eyelets on my right boot had broken. I’d already noticed that the sole on the inner sole of both boots had worn down. But I was so emotionally attached to these boots now and really wanted to see them through to the end! A bit of judicious lacing would be required next day!
The way forward became a little interesting as in theory it takes you on the shoreline side of the fence. However, although not high, the sand dunes had been undercut and the path had collapsed, meaning you either had to drop down onto the shingle beach or climb over the fence. Where the barbed wire had been cut I did the latter, but for some of the time I enjoyed dropping down onto the beach to admire the beautiful assortment of pebbles - my eye was particularly attracted to those of red sandstone conglomerate.
For a while the beach became the far easier route and I thoroughly enjoyed an extended stretch of sand with interesting sandstone and limestone exposures. I could see that I was approaching Sputieburn and hoped that the tide was far enough out I could still cross on the beach. It was touch and go as the tide was coming in and I was surprised how strong the current was close to the waterfall. I kept down as low as I could to the sea, and without too much difficulty, crossed using stones creating shallow water as much as possible. I was pleased my boots didn’t get wet inside!
The beach became increasingly awkward, reverting more and more to shingle, so I re-joined the path on the edge of the sand dunes. As I did so, I noticed a ringed plover and a flock of oystercatchers on the shore, and four female eider ducks dabbling amongst the shallows.
As I gained a bit of height and looked back, two shelduck flew in and landed close by and I then realised that there were four seals with their heads poking up out of the water. As I turned away they dipped down but shortly after one came back up making its rather mournful cry.
At this stage the path is quite high, but again the sand dunes are being undercut and the path has fallen away. I was about to cross the fence when I realised that the beach had now reverted to sand. Just as I dropped down, I noticed Martin ahead doing the same. Within a few minutes we had walked into Lower Brora and as it was 14:00 Martin persuaded me to have at least half of my sandwich before taking me to a cafe for some coffee and cake …. I’d not quite got round to having any lunch!
I’d really enjoyed this walk, and the weather had been perfect - sunny and warm enough for a tee shirt but not too hot.
We decided to head back to Lairg and take a look at where I would have been walking if I had taken the Cape Wrath Trail route - this was, as for, why we were based at Lairg rather than on the coast as I had booked the cottage in advance. We drove to Oykel Bridge into the low cloud and drizzle with no mountains in view. While this was disappointing we did explore the river and in particular The Oykel Falls. I would have been walking here heading north to wild camp at the head of Loch Shin below Ben More. With the conditions as they were, I’m glad I had opted to go along the coast instead. But I also realised that, having essentially walked up the spine of the country, I was really pleased now to be exploring the coastline again.
Glad you have had a chance to relax before the final week. Trust the boots hold out and the path has not fallen into the sea further on!
ReplyDeleteMuch love Dad xx