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Day 85: Fort Augustus to Alltsigh (12.1 miles)

It was a damp day today. Setting off from where I had finished yesterday, a mile or so outside of Fort Augustus, the path was immediately fascinating, plunging into the depths of the moss-floored forest and following beautiful cascades as it zigzagged up the slopes. I noticed bluebells still flowering on the edge of the forest. Heavy rain continued until I emerged from the forest and started to cross rough grassland and then moors.

The path continued to steadily climb and the views over Loch Ness became more and more extensive. I arrived at a viewpoint looking north-east up the fault line - the views up the loch were simply magnificent.

This high level path was superb. I had expected the walk along Loch Ness to be somewhat tedious - how wrong I was. It gently undulated at this high level for much of the way towards Invermoriston and I continually scanned for any deer grazing on the slopes. While I didn’t see deer, I did see a Scottish crossbill fly across the path in front of me, and some delicate yellow bog asphodel was growing in the drainage ditch beside the path. 

Mist swirled around the summits and drifted along the loch. Drizzle had me wondering at what point I needed to put my waterproof jacket back on but I resisted while my body heat beat the dampness.

The drizzle didn’t discourage the midges - if I paused they started to gather so I waited for lunch until there might be a more opportune time.

By 13:30 hunger got the better of me and just as I was pulling a sandwich out of my bag, Martin appeared.  Heading towards Invermoriston, I munched my sandwich as best I could, pausing occasionally to catch my breath (hard work eating bread while walking I find!) and to put our waterproof jackets on as the drizzle got just a little to earnest.

The path dropped down steeply eventually coming to a track which we followed up the side valley until it was time to turn down towards the village. The Telford bridge took us across the River and Falls of Moriston, before we headed for a cafe with excellent coffee and cake.

After a short break I set out again, turning up past the Clog and Craft Shop (where Martin stayed behind to buy himself a pair of clogs) to follow a side road which zig zagged steeply up the slopes to emerge above the forest for a moment before turning back towards the loch and losing height again back into the trees. As Martin was picking me up at Alltsigh, I was obliged to follow the low route. This would help to balance out the mileage over the next two days and although I was apprehensive about losing the views, I found myself enjoying exploring the depths of the forest and found it mysteriously atmospheric. Chaffinches and siskins were calling in the trees and much to my surprise I heard a cuckoo in the distance. A small path dropped down to another track which passed below an extensive boulder field largely hidden by the trees but impressive even so. Below one such boulder was the “stone cave” apparently built for a washerwoman who used to travel regularly between Alltsigh and Invermoriston. It remains a useful shelter for walkers if a little cramped!

I was half thinking about possible animals who would have frequented these woods in the past ….wild boar, wolves ….. when a deer ran across the track. Rather to my surprise she stopped and peered out at me from the dark cover of the pine trees - it was as though time stopped while we gazed at each other until the spell was broken and she sprang away. A strange moment.

The path crossed a rather dilapidated concrete bridge just before the turning down onto the A82 and Alltsigh. I went into the hostel to wait for Martin having got there at 16:40 rather than what we had expected between 17:00 and 17:30.  

We headed into the village of Drumnadrochit where our accommodation for the next week was located, buying supplies from the Scottish Co-op whose supplies are still being impacted from the cyberattack of a month ago.

I was pleased with the walk today. All being well it would be 12 miles tomorrow from Alltsigh to the cottage and then 17.5 from the cottage to the end of GGW at Inverness the following day. Although there was notable ascent to come, I felt this should be well within my capacity - fingers crossed!












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