Knowing that Martin wouldn’t be able to arrive before around 15:00 at Kinlochleven and the walk would take me around 4 hours I had decided to have a lie-in! I was staggered when I didn’t wake until 8:30. I’d obviously found the roar of the stream in spate lulling! Or else I was just tired. But I was relieved that the midge bites hadn’t kept me awake.
There hadn’t been as much rain as I expected over night but the tent was still wet so would need drying once I’d arrived at the lodge at Loch Laggan. I left at 9:50 with mixed emotion knowing that that was my last camp - and as a wild camp it really was one of the best.
Rain started to sweep up Glen Coe as I started to walk up towards the Devil’s Staircase but the views back still had me stopping to watch - I’ve always been fascinated by mists moving across mountain tops and this was no exception.
The Devil’s Staircase strictly refers to the zigzags which take you to the col. I became quite emotional reaching the cairn. I’d done it - I had been wanting to wild camp at Glen Coe early in my planning and spending time around Etive Mor and coming up to the col had long been an anticipated highlight. I waited for two young women to join me and asked if they would mind taking a photo of me there - and did the same for them.
I was reluctant to leave but the descent was gradual and the Etive Mor summit remained in view for quite a distance. But the views north were also beautiful and a clear spell allowed me to really drink in the beauty of the surroundings.
The high path towards Kinlochleven reminded me of the alps. It runs pretty well parallel with the contours for a couple of miles high above the valley so the all-encompassing views are maintained for a good amount of time. A number of flowers caught my eye - in particular, a deep blue heath milkwort and close by, a common butterwort in flower with its star shaped rosette of leaves which being sticky entrap insects, which then digests.
Inevitably the path had to descend rapidly and into the trees where the midges started to make their presence felt but all was well providing you kept moving. The hydro-electric system started to make its presence felt with a roar as water was released down the huge black pipes but did little to invade the beauty of the surroundings.
Arriving at Kinlochleven at 13.00, I continued through the town to the Bothy Bar on the side of Macdonald Hotel to await Martin’s arrival. I got very emotional when Martin arrived - finally being away from him was over. I wouldn’t be planning such a long trip away again!
Arriving at the lodge and everyday items are like luxuries for me - a real toothbrush and toothpaste; a proper towel; a real hairbrush. And a sofa to sit on… what have I been missing all this time!!!!!
But back to a bit of reality tomorrow. Kinlochleven to Fort William - 16 miles. Then rest day on the following day when weather is forecasting snow on higher elevations!
When I took over the counter anti-histamine tablets for hay fever I was impervious to midge bites and Jackie would get eaten alive. It was only years later we figured out I was probably being bitten just as much, but the tablets prevented them showing. Maybe something to consider if the little darlings get more annoying?
ReplyDeleteYes - combination of antihistamine tablets and cream seem to be preventing itching. Fingers crossed!
DeleteHi Anne, it's Robin McLaren here. We met a few times over our careers. I am based in Edinburgh and was going to ask to join you for one of your Scottish walking days. However, the Scottish part of your adventure coincides with my trip to Dallas to childmind for my older son's family. I'm sorry not to join you as I love long distance walking and have hiked extensively across the Alps. When I complete long walks I am always surprised that I feel sad about finishing and want to continue. Mind you that was 55 days and not 100 days! My mother also died of dementia and I will contribute to your fund. Enjoy the last few days of the adventure. All the best. Robin (robin.mclaren@KnowEdge.com)
ReplyDeleteHi Robin! So good to hear from you and thank you so much for your generous donation. Such a shame not to catch up with you but I hope you are enjoying the childminding!
DeleteI fully anticipate getting very emotional in around 20 days when I finally get to John O’Groats. For the moment, it will be relief and finally being back home with the family around me, but as you say I know I will also miss the experience too! I’ve found it quite dis-orientating in the past!
All the best - and many thanks again.
You made it through the camping with midges! Such beautiful scenes, enjoying all the images and your writing. Abi
ReplyDeleteI’m so relieved - and finally a rest day!!
DeleteDelighted that you are now with Martin and the Devil's Staircase did not disappoint. Strong winds in the Great Glen will hopefully be at your back and keep the midges away. Happy mountains and coast still to come!
ReplyDeleteMuch love Dad xx