Day 78: Inveroran to Altnafeadh (bottom of Devil’s Staircase) (13.5 miles)

I made the rookie mistake of assuming the midges wouldn’t be out at dark and went outside for a call of nature without bothering to put trousers and socks on - or of zipping up the tent. I thought I was quick. Clearly there was a swarm of them waiting for me. I realised my mistake as soon as I got back in the tent - my legs and face feeling prickly and when I put the torch on I had company. Hoping by wiping myself down and getting deep into my sleeping bag would solve it was a vain hope. When I got up in the morning it was clear the midges had done their worst - particularly on my feet and lower legs. Sigh. I read that wiping the bites with antiseptic helps to wipe off the midge “saliva” and then applying antihistamine cream helps. Fingers crossed but it would be the next couple of nights where I’d really know the outcome of my roomy mistake…

I was keen to get ahead of heavy rain which was due around 11 so got moving as soon as the early morning rain eased at 6. I left shortly after 7 with the midges still in attendance but this time I was fully protected.

The mist was well down so I was relieved I had seen the mountains the previous evening. The track led to Forest Lodge and then steadily climbed, first through forest and then as it gained height breaking out into grass and moorland.  This led to the plateau of Rannoch moor and with the mist starting to rise and the sun coming out the views across the loch and to the mountains were beautiful. I met a couple who had found a great spot to wild camp and had had a glorious evening - but the rain had been exceptionally heavy and they were only just de-camping at 9:30.

I got to Ba bridge for 10am - there was fantastic tipping strata creating a phenomenal cascade - but there had been warning that a number of people had been ill using filtered water from the bridge so I had been careful to make sure I was carrying enough water to negate that need.

Still staggered by the openness of the views even though the mountains were largely in cloud I reached the col for 11 and my first glimpse into the valley leading to Glen Coe. And then the real surprise - the drama of Buachaille Etive Mor, an imposing buttress of a mountain which dominated the valley for the rest of the day’s walk. 

Seeing the rain coming through I was pleased to reach King House Hotel just before 12 where there is a walkers’ bar serving coffee, snacks and light lunches. The rain took awhile to arrive and then to go through so in the end I didn’t leave until nearly 15:00.  

As luck would have it I was only walking for 5 minutes before another major squall came through up from Glen Coe; and then another; and then another. My mountain equipment waterproof is excellent for these conditions having a 3 dimensional adjustment to the hood so with the wind and rain/hail coming directly at me I was still able to turn my head slightly and fix the hood so it didn’t hit me face-on.  Even so I would occasionally turn my back and let the backpack take the force of the rain for a minute or two.

But the sky started to lighten and remarkably quickly the cloud base started to lift and the rain to ease.  I was now looking seriously for sites to pitch the tent. Arriving at the car park at the base of Devil’s Staircase before 4pm I noticed a potential spot down from the bridge, by the stream. Sure enough, what looked like a perfect place - flat and sheltered I hoped from the prevailing wind.

I was in luck: the sun continued to shine helping to dry my wet tent out as well as my waterproofs. I had time to wander around the area and down to the river where the views up the Coupall Valley and into the mountain range were gorgeous. It wasn’t until 19:30 that the sun went in and I went into the tent to cook supper and write up my notes. None too soon as the next squall hit, testing out the strength of the tent and my pitch. So far so good, but the small leak will need watching tonight…