Day 70: Mid Calder to Linlithgow (15.8 miles)

Having been indulged at Abi and David’s with a first rate breakfast and packed lunch, Abi drove me back to my end point at Mid Calder and I set off at 9:20.

I was pleasantly surprised again by the Almondel Country Park; a substantial river and my curiosity piqued by a feeder canal which was channelled away from the river just before the impressive Camp viaduct - largely constructed to support the oil shale industry of the 19th century.

Walking through largely pastoral country I reached the jaw-dropping Lin’s Mill aqueduct at 10:45. Its dizzying height above the river is enhanced by the waterfall spilling out and down from the canal - apparently this had frozen one winter and taken 2 months to thaw.

I started to walk on the upstream side of the aqueduct finding that I actually had to be on the other side, going down and under the arches to come up the other side. Here I met Patrick - having spotted that I was walking LEJOG he wanted to tell me that he had cycled the Alps for Alzheimer’s in 2021. 

I finally walked over the aqueduct on the right side at 11:10 walked and headed for Broxham in 2.5 miles. There were Sedge warblers in the bushes, and beyond I could see the top of the forth bridge and some shale spoil heaps.

Hearing a sedge warbler I stopped to find it and to my surprise then spotted a reed bunting sat in hawthorn below me - very clear white markings on its face compared to the similar looking stonechat. Having gone under the M8 I realised I had crossed under the Edinburgh flight path since the aqueduct.

I was taken by the Holygate back to back houses - built in the 19th century for the oil shale workers - these have become quite charming homes for today, and the people I met were clearly proud of their neighbourhood - one lady was concerned that I might be lost and wanted to ensure I was ok. She told me how lucky they were to have the canal here as well. 

Passing a more recent and less appealing housing estate - we made some awful planning mistakes in the 20th century - I then passed a considerable shale spoil heap and 2 young men clearly traumatised by having been attacked by 2 adult swans who objected to the intrusion close to their cygnets. I reassured them that the swans were now swimming in the opposite direction.

The view opened up to the north and I could see back to the Pentland Hills, so I stopped for lunch at 12:45 - I had walked 7 miles so was half way along. I took my time and set off again at 13:30.

I spent my time in quiet contemplation as I walked along the canal in the afternoon along the tree clad canal. I watched the murmuration of tiny insects above the water and wondered if this was where the murmuration of birds such as starlings - as Richard and Paula Waterhouse had described to me at Twice Brewed - had evolved… at least they weren’t midges!

Emerging from a cutting was a relief - I was really finding it monotonous, so having things to look at again beyond the canal was certainly an improvement. 3.75 miles to go … and counting. I really was getting bored! No!!!!  Back into another cutting - this time with a shale slag heap to the right. Phew - that one was brief, and a convenient bench as I thankfully emerged just had to be utilised! It was a joy to get a wider vista and hear Yellowhammers singing in the flowering May trees.

I wanted to get to Linlithgow before the chemists shut as I wanted to pick up smidge (for the impending midges in the highlands) - I’d not thought to take one from the supply box before Martin left me 3 or so weeks ago. I nearly passed up the opportunity to stop at the Park for coffee and cake, but the temptation was too great and I realised I had enough time.

I finally arrived, and walked past the station and up the high street, enjoying the town with its castle and loch. Settled into my airbnb, I explored the castle surrounds and ate at the Four Marys pub before heading back in the first showers of the changing weather … the waterproofs would be coming out in the morning. The last time I’d worn them was on 4th May!