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Day 63: Rest day & Day 64: Jedburgh to St Boswell (12.8 miles)

For my first rest day I had a quiet day washing all my clothing, reading a book and exploring the old abbey.  Wonderful!

On Day 64 I didn’t rush in the morning as I knew (well, apparently I didn’t…..) this would be a short day and checkout for the homely apartment wasn’t until 12.

I set off at 11 and walked along the Jedfoot to re-join the Trail under high redstone cliffs and attractive flower beds on my side of the river. A heron, untroubled by my passing quietly preened itself while mallard dabbled in the shallows below it.

I walked up through mixed woodland dominated by mature beech and what I now realised were lime trees. I hadn’t been able to decide that coming into Jedburgh along Dere Street the day before yesterday.

The view from the path extended to the Waterloo monument, and I descended back down to Jedfoot river and walked through woodlands filled with wild garlic.

At the meeting of the waters was another heron with a hornbeam planted as part of the Teviot Water, part of the Hawick Flood Protection Scheme where 13 trees have been planted on each tributary.

A calming stroll through the Monteviot landscaped grounds by the river led me to the Monteviot suspension footbridge at just gone 13:00 - it wobbles a lot!!!

I passed the grand house and garden centre later on by the walled garden which I refrained from visiting, continuing on through the pine woodland and wild garlic as I heard the call of a nuthatch. I walked up the ravine and through the woodlands looking for a good spot for lunch. At 2pm I came to a small lane just as the path came out into the open and found a very convenient bench made from a plank nailed to an old tree stump. Very thoughtful of someone!

Progressing on I then came to a glorious section of Dere Street - a wide long vista of the straight ancient road route, with the Monteath Mausoleum to the south and Baron’s Folly to the north.

Approaching  the site of the battle of Ancrum  Moor, 1554 there was a line of old beech trees. And I wondered at the provenance of St Cuthbert’s Way - had the plentiful trees along the Way been planted for the Way or for Dere Street or….??? As I was thinking this I heard buzzing - looking up I saw a wild bees nest up in the beech above me. A great sight.

I was pleased to see an information board telling me about the battle of Ancrum in 1545 - part of the “Rough Wooing” of the English and Henry VIII in trying to persuade the Scottish to sanction the marriage of Mary Queen of Scots (only 6 days old when her father King James of Scotland died) to his son who would briefly become Edward VI. A tragic life story if ever there was.  This was followed shortly by the legend of Lady Lilliard and her stone - it seems that she was more symbolic of the bravery of women in general who were largely uncelebrated. But this seems uncertain. Even so, the view from the Moor was extensive.

I had a discussion with a mother and daughter walking St Cuthberts about a mystery plant - possibly a burdock (as it happens it’s not so the mystery is still not solved!) ( turns out a few days later it was water avens). However, I enjoyed meeting them in any case - they are staying 2 nights at Lindisfarne to see the puffins (which they also saw at Skomer and recommended).

A welcome FaceTime call from Martin followed along with my father and Sarah. Shortly after, I turned off Dere St and kept following St Cuthbert Way down to Maxton and it’s Kirk, which then led down to the beautiful walk by the Tweed, around a big meander, before I could head to St Boswell.

Arriving at the river, a colony of black headed gulls ducking, diving and swooping were established on a stony shoal in the shallows along with an oystercatcher. Then, as I entered the turn of the meander a swarm of sand martins flying like bats appeared congregating around the sandbank below me. A rookery in the Scot’s pines by the river announced its presence with a real old racket!

A baby vole scurried along the path and, would you believe it, toppled and rolled over like a young, over eager puppy. I paused to let it recover itself and it scurried back into the grass.

Rather to my surprise the path then diverged from the river through the village golf course. A steep lane led me up into the village and across the green to tonight’s welcoming accommodation at the Beuccleuch Arms. I was surprised to see the mileage - I’d expected today to be 10 miles. That explained why I arrived later than I had expected! But all good - feet aren’t protesting!














Comments

  1. Delighted all going well and to have had a chance to speak to you on Martin's phone, though I still can't get my head round this modern technology!
    Much love Dad xxx

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