Day 58: Kellah to The Sill YHA (Hadrian’s Wall) (12.9 miles)

I set off at about 9:15 having chatted with Lesley who runs the Kellah B&B. I’d certainly recommend it and would like to go back with Martin some time so we can visit the Hadrian Wall museum. A cool breeze was what I had hoped for - this was going to make the morning easier than yesterday which was hot and humid.

I made my way through Greenrigg with the well known old caravans and men sleeping in them - one gave me a cheery greeting and offered me one of the chicks I was admiring for my lunch! There were fine specimens of hens, ducks and cockerels, obviously well looked after, and I knew he was teasing.

Onwards across Hartleyburn Common (north side) and when the path dispersed through what would normally be bog, I set my sights on the fence ahead and joined the path at the bridge over the Glencue Burn. Normally this would have been ridiculous as it would have been deep bog but the going was springy and dry over the moss. I kept an eye out for any eggs or chicks not wanting to disturb them, and remembered the hatched egg of a lapwing I had seen yesterday - or at least I hope it was and not the leftovers of a scavenger’s feast.

I saw small pink flowers with tiny fern like leaves - I would need to look that up later. I had no idea what it was. Yet again there were swathes of cotton grass shining in the sun, which I’m sure Mum - as well as Dad - would have loved.

Apart from that one section the direction became easier as a path has been gradually worn by the number of feet passing through, so coming to the stile near the trig point was no problem at all. The view across to the Whin Sill where Hadrian’s Wall was built came closer and closer.

After descending from the moor and threading through fields, the 3 lane A69 (nightmarish), Haltwhistle golf course and the railway, I arrived at Thirlwell Castle at 11:45. From here there was a steady climb up to what for me was the start of the Wall. Soon I came to Carvoran and the Wall House car park with refreshments - a welcome sight. Here I was encouraged by both the lady serving refreshments and a lady who helps at one of the welcome cafes for Alzheimer’s. A real boost to morale again. I stopped for coffee and cake and left at 12:45.

Today, having climbed to the scarp I decided to pick up the Roman military road - going parallel to but missing some of the big climbs and turrets of the Wall itself. Having done the National Trail route before and I was curious to explore this path. I didn’t regret it!

I stopped for a leisurely lunch at 2pm to watch a couple of newly born lambs learning to stagger and feed while the ewe licked them clean. A beautiful sight. I finally moved on at 14:50.

As I climbed towards the 345m trig point I thought I heard a cuckoo but decided I had imagined it. But then it briefly landed on the fence right by the trig pint, saw me, flicked its long tail, cuckooed and flew off - I was so chuffed!

Then a couple of hiking buddies came along and we swopped taking photos - they were doing the Pennine Way, but taking a rest day today having run out of light and hiked 3 miles last night to the YHA. Now they were doing that section today while her partner recuperated from tendonitis.

I took the route off to the Sill YHA from the viewpoint of the Steel Rigg where there were climbers scaling the cliff face. A short walk along the road brought me to the impressive building although I tried to get in from the café side and obviously needed to go further down the road to for the actual entrance. Very confusing!

I had had a text earlier from Richard Waterhouse, an old work colleague, wondering if I’d like to have dinner with him while near his home at Housesteads. He arranged a table at the Twice Brewed pub for me, his wife and himself for 7pm. Having checked in at 17:15 I had plenty of time to shower, write up my notes and have a rest before heading over there.

Having thought this could be a difficult day, it is one I thoroughly enjoyed. The weather was perfect for walking with a fresh breeze to keep me cool. I particularly liked the freedom to elect walking along the Roman military road rather than scaling the steep undulations of the Wall. I could imagine the Roman commanders doing the same and ordering their subordinates to scale the heights ….. it was a good feeling!