Day 56: Greg’s Hut (Cross Fell) to Alston (10 miles)

Having thought I’d be on my own last night, 2 German guys arrived - it turned out the ones Martin and I had seen at Clove Lodge who had got too cold when overnighting at the shooting cabin the night before. They were good company - and managed to get the stove lit which made the Hut that bit more homely. I had the best sleep in awhile. I’d gone outside at 3:45 and seen dawn on the horizon. I left shortly after 9 having got up at 7:30. The sky was clear and the view was breath-taking.

The way to Garrigill is along the Corpse Road - notoriously long and arduous. Today I have to admit that is how it seemed to me. I was determined to enjoy the scenery but all was quiet and very few birds were about. You can see the road winding up and down through the hills for miles and the descent down to the village seemed to go on a long time. But make it I did, arriving shortly after 12 and I stopped for coffee, yoghurt and a Wispa Gold from the post office. I sat out on the village green enjoying the sun.

There was some debate as to whether the footbridge over the young Tyne was open but I continued along the traditional PW route in hope and crossed without issue. The walk along the river, through the trees coming into leaf was a joy. Over the bridge the path rises and seemed to pass field after field without nearing Alston. But I was encouraged by cheery waves and hellos from locals both at Garrigill and at one of the farms a mile or so from the town with the reassurance that I only had a mile to go. 

I finally arrived at Alston YHA at 14:30, realising that in my focus to get there early I’d overlooked actually having lunch. It seemed like a long walk to do after going over Cross Fell from Dufton - no wonder I was exhausted last time. I was very relieved I had decided to split it this time by stopping at Greg’s Hut.

Part of my reason for wanting to get to Alston early was that I had discovered the night before that in sending my 10000mAh power bank home as it had failed to charge properly at Malham I had neglected to keep the cable with me for charging my phone with the 25000 power bank. My luck was in. Matt from the YHA pulled out a box of cables left behind previously and gave me the one I needed - problem solved.  

After a refreshing shower, I headed into town to the Cobbles Cafe for a substitute lunch. A cheese scone and tea cake stood in well for the rice cakes in my backpack.  I’m writing this sitting in the sun on the steps of the market stand. With swifts flying overhead.  It feels very indulgent to be a normal tourist for the afternoon! Dinner is at 7pm so plenty of time to rest and recuperate, stopping at the Alston Arms for a G&T on my way back. Destination tomorrow - a B&B at Kellah just off the PW. And as there will be steam trains running tomorrow I will follow the South Tyne Trail - husband, Martin, will be so jealous!!!