Day 51: Hawes to Keld (13.6 miles)

After leaving the cottage near Askrigg, we started off from Hawes at 10, my glute was playing up - I needed to remember to take ibuprofen and deep heat 15 mins or so before the walking. We walked across the bridge and through fields to Hardraw where we stooped at the tea room for coffee. This gave time for my glute to settle down so I was much happier on the continuation.

There is a pretty steady ascent up towards Great Shunner and Martin came with me until the ascent steepened significantly. I was delighted that there were lots of curlews.

Shortly after I entered a conservation area I continued to hear the sound of curlew, black grouse and other ground nesting birds. This reminded me that I had seen the classic white curved tail of a black grouse at the head of Snaizeholme the day before. A lapwing displayed as I was contemplating this.

It was pretty cold and as I continued to head up, there were a couple of hail showers which stung my face but made me feel alive and full of inspiration to enjoy being out in such glorious open space.

I was happy with my steady plod up to the summit reaching there easily for lunch where I joined a couple from Pattely Bridge sheltering out of the wind at the Great Shunner Fell cairn.

I seemed to be the only one then descending towards Thwaite and here the wind was absolutely bitter. It made me think that I needed to add my balaclava to my clothing going forward.

It felt like a long descent coming off the shoulder of the hill (which is 713m high) and for a while there was a rain shower.

I started to dream of a hot chocolate but this was shattered when Keaton tea room was shut for a private function. Never mind - that meant I’d get to see my friends at Butt House all the earlier.

The steep ascent around Kisdon Hill I was prepared for and I was delighted to hear and then see lots of white tailed bumble bees on the bilberries for the first time, as well as the continuing sign of a thriving population of curlews.

Martin appeared just after I completed the steep part of the ascent and he warned me that there was an hour to go and that the path went across scree. He wasn’t wrong but to a large extent this reminded me of the South West Coastal Path. It was also compensated for by a glorious swathe of Primroses on the stone slopes - I’ve never seen so many!

I became more and more excited as we drew closer to Keld and we spotted Mal at his car getting ready to walk out of us. We actually met him just outside the village hall so it was a short walk to the B&B and a wonderful hug from Jacqui. The start of a wonderful evening being pampered with tea and birthday cake (Jacqui’s), champagne, and a tasty and filling dinner. After dinner catchup over whiskies and - for me - water!!!

Another day complete and very definitely half way. A felt card of a curlew from Jacqui and Chris was so appropriate and will be framed when I eventually get home.

There were many laughs and hilarity and it made me think of some painted stones we saw down in Hardraw, one that particularly attracted my attention:

“If you find something that makes you smile give or laugh but it or marry it” …looks like I married it - Martin!!!