Day 48: Earby to Malham (18 miles)

I was able to set off at 7:40 having woken at 5:45 and given up trying to go back to sleep. This had the advantage of setting off before the day got really hot again. Frustratingly my glute was playing up having been good the day before. I hoped that with a couple of ibuprofen and applying deep heat it would fade over a couple of hours which to a large extent it did.

I was distracted by a deer running off over a field apparently chased by something I couldn’t quite make sense of - it didn't look right for a fox.  It then chased something similar and I was very confused. It was only when I got my monocular out that I realised they were hares chasing each other - the mad March hare syndrome. Perhaps someone should explain to them it’s now May!

I met a Pennine Way walker struggling to cross the busy road at Thornton in Craven.  He was ending in Hawes this time, but had started the same time as me from the Edale campsite, but had gone up Jacob’s Ladder not Grindsbrook. He was intending to camp at the riverside campsite at Malham tonight although I couldn’t see him as we passed later in the day - in fact there were no tents to be seen!

Passing through Lang lber Farm I was impressed by the tuck shop there although I didn’t need anything. I noticed a single swallow which concerned me - I really hadn’t seen so many over the last few days. But was cheered although mystified again by lapwings again bombarding a pheasant.

This area was classic Drumlin country - lots of elongated hills pointing in the same direction and plenty for the path to go up and down. But it was pleasant walking. My friend, Mal (who runs Weather Goats Support and been such a help to me since so first met him in March 2020 to support my first Pennine Way venture), walked out to meet me from Gargrave at 10:30 and we caught up over coffee and cake at the Dalesman Cafe. It was super to see him.

I picked up supplies from the Co-op before continuing on at 12, and stopped at the river for lunch at 13:30 across from a pair of oystercatchers who were completely fearless. As I started walking again a dipper flew downstream. Walking along the river in the shade of the trees was a perfect respite from the hot sun.

The path follows the river for much of the way to Malham, with a stiff climb up through the attractive hamlet of Hanlith before descending to Malham. I was as ever pleased to see Martin emerging from the entrance gate leading to the village and having arrived ahead of the agreed rendezvous of 4pm there was time for (another!) tea and cake and a catch up before I loaded up the backpack with my camping stuff. Martin walked out with me for half an hour to the base of the Cove before leaving me to climb up onto the glorious limestone pavement. 

It was a superb summer-like evening and I lingered on the pavement walking across the Clints and grykes checking for wildflowers (spotted orchids) and enjoying a scramble up the limestone to access the valley onto Eve Moor and the way to the Tarn. I love the Watlows valley and took my time before winding along the shallow dry valley coming to the swallow hole in action below the Tarn. An astonishing volume of water just disappearing within a metre. 

All that was left now was to pick up the route to my wild camp for tonight.  A beautiful secluded spot at the head of a gorge with a stream running by me I’m pleased with the set up tonight with the mattress and sleeping bag now in the Alpkit bivvy bag inside the tent. Fingers crossed for a peaceful night tonight which will really help get my confidence for the camps over the next couple of weeks. Although as I write it seems as though the May bugs are out and colliding into the tent!