Walking Lands End to John O'Groats 2025 for Alzheimer's Society

I made the rookie mistake of assuming the midges wouldn’t be out at dark and went outside for a call of nature without bothering to put trousers and socks on - or of zipping up the tent. I thought I was quick. Clearly there was a swarm of them waiting for me. I realised my mistake as soon as I got back in the tent - my legs and face feeling prickly and when I put the torch on I had company. Hoping by wiping myself down and getting deep into my sleeping bag would solve it was a vain hope. When I got up in the morning it was clear the midges had done their worst - particularly on my feet and lower legs. Sigh. I read that wiping the bites with antiseptic helps to wipe off the midge “saliva” and then applying antihistamine cream helps. Fingers crossed but it would be the next couple of nights where I’d really know the outcome of my roomy mistake… I was keen to get ahead of heavy rain which was due around 11 so got moving as soon as the early morning rain eased at 6. I left shortly after 7 ...

I set off at 10:45 after chatting with the owner and waiting for worst of rain to pass. Apparently Strathfillan has the wettest weather in the UK - it rains 280 days of the year and has 4 times more rain than Edinburgh. The rain took a little while to pass through but was more of a drizzle so I risked not wearing my waterproof trousers. This was a good call in the end - apart from a very brief squall the rain passed over and a spent most of the day looking forward to sunshine, with heavy clouds behind me. The moss and ferns love it here - and so do the midges apparently but the breeze and my movement was enough to keep them at bey and they were no bother at all during the day. A grey wagtail was feeding by the Fillan and I passed many impressive cascades and a slightly un-nerving underpass to the A82 where it looked like the river had over-topped its banks during the night.  Passing through fields and the ruins of the Fillan Priory the vegetation changed to heather and I came to th...

This was a long and pretty tough day - one that I had been anticipating for a while.   There was heavy rain overnight and by the morning there was a small leak on one of the seams - one of the Swedish cloths was sufficient to absorb the small puddle forming but I’d have to watch that on subsequent nights. I packed everything bar the tent up before breakfast (continental/porridge) - the midges were delighted to greet me - before taking down a very wet tent!  I left the bunkhouse at 8:30. The walk down from the bunkhouse was enhanced by the drama of the Arklet Water in spate - as were all the burns and cascades on the walk today. The section between Inversnaid and Inveraran is notorious and guidebooks warn that although it is by the loch, it undulates over rocky ground. In itself I enjoyed it, but it was slow going and made harder by the persistent heavy rain which meant the path was now muddy, and the stones and tree roots potentially slippy. In the event, the rock was act...

A calm night with some rain in the early hours but by 7 the tent was dry. I had breakfast and de-camped by 9.  Some wind was stirring to allow me to dry the groundsheet and discourage the midges which were gathering. I’d bought some smidge at the camp shop so I hoped it had stopped them biting me! With a fully loaded backpack today it would be interesting to see how I got on. The path took me through woodland and by 10am I was at Sallochy where it was possible to wild camp with a license either by the shore or in woodland. I was happy I’d chosen to stay at Cashel. Continuing on through the woods above the loch a bird singing had me using the ChirpOMatic app to determine what it was - it indicated either a willow tit or wood warbler - I wasn’t sure which, so thought I would check later. I stopped at Rowardennan Hotel for coffee at 11 - I certainly felt ready for it! One of the joys of the trails has been the Honesty boxes - but I have to say the Ben Lomond one at 12 was exceptional....