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Day 44: Torside/Crowden to Marsden (13.1 miles)

Driving back from Martin’s Mum’s house we left the car at Crowden at 10 having ensured I had walked the equivalent distance to following the Pennine Way.  

I heard first a cuckoo, and then curlews, with plenty of willow warblers all along the valley. To my delight a pair of lapwing performed their acrobatics while issuing their distinctive cry.

We met a couple of men who were fascinated by what I was doing and shared that they are planning 7 weeks to Peru and Chile and wanted to follow my blog. They later kindly made a donation. 

Laddow Rocks, as ever, was stunning. It’s one of my highlights of the Pennine Way.  As we stood soaking up the sun and the view I heard the sound of a bird of prey and a little later we watched a kestrel fly out from the rocks and disappear flying high into the distance. 


We stopped for elevenses at our favourite grass patch by the stream where last time Martin had had a siesta while I watched a wren feeding up and down the stream. This time I left him having a snooze. The risk being he wouldn’t wake up in time to pick me up at the other end. I might have known there was plenty else to distract him…

I mused as I walked that it felt as though mentally I was changing gear, recognising this, starting with meeting Georgie and Maria, as an important interim phase of mental and physical rest as I approach half way. Whilst half way can be regarded as an achievement and something to celebrate, as I know from the South West Coastal Path it can also be overwhelming, realising that you have all that to do again. I want to prepare myself so as far as possible I don’t feel that way in 6 days time.  Having support from the family so I could have some nights of comfort and company has been extremely valuable to help me recharge and press the psychological refresh button.

As I walked onto Black Hill I was struck by the expanse of cotton grass starting to flower - one of Mum’s favourites.  Again a bit of nostalgia kicked in - I used to take photos of flowers to show her when I returned from a walk, now I’m doing it for Dad but also myself and the blog. 

I reached Black Hill at 13:00 so was pleased I was well on schedule. I stopped for lunch on the footslopes of Black Hill at 13:25. I eventually left at 2pm after a long chat with a lovely guy and his two daughters. He’s planning Coast to Coast over 10 days soon.  Shortly after I was stunned to see the girls running back up the hill with him waving from below- he had meant to give me some cash as a donation.  Yet another act of kindness along the trail.

The deep cloughs before reaching the road have to be treated with respect with an alternative route to be taken when they are in spate. Today, they were barely a trickle. This is very early for the moor to be so dry.

The next stage was walking by the Wessenden reservoirs. I was busy watching the Canad geese on the water when I noticed some small birds at the water’s edge - a pair of ringed plover.

Shortly after dropping down from the Lodge you come to a beautiful stream where a couple of families were picnicking, and then have to climb an extraordinary steep path out of the valley which has now been laid with stone.  In 2020, I remember it as being a quite treacherous muddy slide and being very concerned seeing some people struggling with sandals not to fall. But the highlight was a pair of lapwings again calling and playing aerial acrobatics beyond the lodge and before the descent to the stream.

As I was climbing steadily up from the main valley and onto the open moor, I started looking out for Martin but with no sign I crossed over the Black Moor reservoir and was taken aback to see the lower reservoir empty. I have a feeling I read that they had to use that water to deal with extensive wildfires in the area - today there was no sign of the damage that those would have caused in this particular stretch.

As I walked down towards Stendedge I caught sight of Martin who gave me a rather sheepish grin. This time he had got distracted by the Marsden canal tunnel - quite rightly to be fair as I have always been fascinated by this 3.5 mile tunnel - apparently the longest and deepest canal tunnel in the world.

Arriving at the car by 5pm I reflected that I didn’t feel particularly tired, and was looking forward to the next few days with confidence.










Comments

  1. Dad. What memories... I was first at Crowden in my teens, before meeting Mum, and was persuaded to do 120foot Long Climb. Learned to be less ambitious!. Delighted you are doing so well. You undertook to walk End to End. Doesn't mean you have to suffer at night!
    Much love Dad xx

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