Day 42: Taddington to Edale (14.2 miles)

We arrived back at the A6 start point for 10am and agreed to meet up at Millers Dale. The walk was straight forward enough although steeply downslope which my glute wasn’t too happy about. Martin had - in predictable fashion - got a little distracted by the old railway line but fortunately didn’t miss our rendezvous.

We continued together climbing out of the Dale and enjoying the views across the White Peak as we continued along the Limestone Way.

Once we arrived at Peter Dale, Martin decided to return to the car via Monk’s Dale while I continued up Peter Dale and then Hay Dale. Apart from a couple of rocky stretches, both made easy walking - Monk’s Dale is rather trickier apparently. Walking up Peter Dale I noticed just how much ash die-back there is. Jackdaws and rooks were taking advantage of the cliffs to nest, and I heard another little owl in the trees.

Coming to Hay Dale I discovered that this is part of a Nature Reserve and was notable for its flowers - at this time of year, plenty of cowslips but also early spring - of spotted -  orchids. I enjoyed the telling views of the Dark Peak as I gained height along a track. Did I say the daffodils were over …apparently not. A cluster of narcissi in their prime were on the roadside.

I surprised myself by getting emotional as I crossed the A326 - I had immediately recognised this as the route we used to take to cut across from the M1 via Chesterfield to Glossop and my grandmother’s home in Charlesworth - a very poignant childhood memory.

But as I ascended to the top of the col the mam tor ridge and kinder plateau came into view and I was filled with excitement. I was back, and ready to begin the Pennine Way which I hold so dear. Lots of childhood memories flooded in - we often went onto Mam Tor, Phil to fly his remote controlled planes (I seem to remember one disappearing into the distance…??) and Dave with his kites. I watched 7 paragliders taking off from Lords Seat and taking advantage of the thermals as I took a quick lunch break.

I began to descent towards Castleton down Cave Dale realising that I had no memory of having walked here - a well hidden and narrow gorge which was very rocky underfoot and really quite exhilarating. I was quite a way down before I met Martin walking up - and sure enough the entrance to this extraordinary valley is through a narrow gap between rocks that you would miss if you didn’t know it was there or followed the signs.

We stopped for cream tea at Rosy’s Cafe where I had been on a previous occasion with daughters Jess and Maria - and I was chuffed when they offered to put up one of my posters for the fund-raising. 

Having left some of my stuff with Martin, I realised I’d left my gloves so I was relieved to be able to pick up a cheap pair at the Outdoor Shop on the way to picking up the path to Edale via Hollins Cross. Although I’d been a bit anxious how long this would take going over the Mam Tor Ridge, this proved to be a great section, and I really enjoyed climbing up onto the ridge leaving Martin to, again, return to the car and meet me in Edale. 

The views were superb across to the Kinder plateau and reminded me of when I had started the PW in 2020 and had woken at 5am freezing cold and driven to the top of Winnats Pass to try and warm up and have some breakfast before meeting Mal Brass for the first time to support me on my walk as Weather Goats Support and who has become such a good friend.

I took the descent slowly so as not to set off any of my muscles or knee! And arrived promptly at Castleton arriving almost simultaneously with Martin. He stayed with me while I pitched the tent and then returned to his Mum’s whilst I got settled in. Newfold Farm is fantastic. The new facilities at the top field are hotel standard! And the cafe has stayed open until 8pm doing serve yourself curries - which I’ve followed with hot chocolate and brownie. Well set up for tomorrow - apart from having decided not to bring the cooker for tonight, I don’t have a spoon for my overnight oats in the morning. I need to go beg for one from the staff!

I am planning to go up onto the Kinder plateau up Grindsbrook which has so many family memories - both of me as a child with my brothers, and with my own children and Martin. It seems appropriate on the Pennine Way’s 60th birthday to go up the original start route.