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Day 33: Knighton to Craven Arms (17.5 miles)

Amazingly today I am a third of the way along my journey. I can’t quite believe it. My time with Martin based at St Ives at the start of the challenge seems years ago and I can’t wait to see him in a week’s time. 

The days have blended together and I’m so pleased I’ve been keeping this daily journal and photos. The memories I have are so mixed from the freezing cold to the baking hot, from the joy of being, and everything seeming to come quite naturally,  to the sheer dogged determination to make my legs go uphill while carrying that beastly backpack!

Today has started damp so we will see how things go, but today I turn away from my second National Trail and head across country over the Shropshire Hills to Craven Arms, Wenlock Edge and across to Ironbridge and Cannock Chase where I’m excited to meet up with 2 of my daughters, Georgie and Maria - whose birthdays are today and tomorrow, so we will have some celebrating to do while I continue the walk!

It looks like there’s a fair few contours to cross, at least this morning, so I’d better finish what’s been a great breakfast here at the Mad Hatter’s cafe. That will have set me up after the strangest place I think I’ve ever stayed but certainly saved having a soggy tent. I better pick up some lunch and get going!

Leaving the town, I passed a gypsy encampment with several workout traditional gypsy caravans and a pony in what looked a well established paddock.

The path steadily climbed through farmland and a lamb became firmly fixed at my side having clearly been bottle fed. I had to rather firmly turn and walk swiftly away in the hope it would return to its mother. Only when I was a field away did it do so.

A steep climb led to an intriguing grassy valley which opened up to a beautiful basin with rock cliffs above. As I got to the pond below Holloway rocks a heron flew up and a couple of roe deer ran across behind me. It was a stunning bit of country - a rook badgered a red kite to seal the sense that I was fortunate to see so much before me. Magical.

As I climbed out of the basin I was very relieved the wind  was behind me. It was bitter, gusting up to 40 in the forecast and coming from the SSW. Today was the coldest day time temperature at 6 so far but that’s fine for walking…. It’s the night time temperatures I’m more worried about!

The next hill loomed fairly soon after. Navigating through Lower Lyle farm was frustrating. Apparently due to dog training there appeared to be a temporary diversion. This involved climbing a metal bared fence whilst the dog continued barking vigorously. A kissing gate with signs on both sides then led nowhere. In reality you had to ignore that and stay on the unsigned original side of the fence.

Having finally broken free of that labyrinth, and approaching Upper lyre farm a pungent smell of rotting carcass hit my nose. Not long after, a long dead carcass of a row deer lay cross the path and scavengers had obviously had their fill - an inescapable reminder of the raw necessities and cycles of nature.

A goshawk streaked past as I climbed the hill and light rain began. The path wrapped around Hopton Castle Hill, dropping steadily down as I looked for some shelter to have lunch. As a compromise I paused at 13:30 for a short standup lunch.

I wasn’t expecting the attractive old timber cottages going through the village of Hopton Castle -  as well as the ruined castle itself. It was clearly a village with history, and wanted to know more. As I left the village behind, a couple of ravens were badgering a buzzard. As I climbed the hill it alluded them and soared around me as I gained elevation. I reflected that over the past couple of days I had seen lots of red kites.

I was getting tired and hungry as I circumnavigated  Clungunford and was intrigued by the mote although there was no notice about its history. The timely appearance of a bench (a very rare species on the Trail!) in the recreation ground was far too appealing to pass by and I gratefully stopped for a sit down late lunch (15:30).

A gradual climb now to the last hill before descending to Stokesay Castle and Cravens Arms. I was amazed by the peaceful roads with no traffic bar one handover. This helped my progress until turning off into an overgrown pathway. Fortunately this led to a field and then into the woods with the most mud I’ve had all trek. 

I was therefore relieved to re-emerge onto pastureland. There were swallows flying low in the field as I walked towards the castle and the rain clouds finally pulled away allowing the sun to make a weak appearance whilst another buzzard soared overhead.

As I crossed a stile I disturbed a ewe with her newly born lamb. She seemed shocked and scared to see me so to avoid her taking flight, I moved slowly with my back to her, hoping this would encourage her not to run. Much to my relief she nervously stayed out and once I was at a distance the ewe encouraged the little lamb to feed.

 I was then thrilled to see lots of swallows skimming the water of the lake in front of the castle. A beautiful sight, timed perfectly with Martin calling me for a quick catchup - a real tonic.

I still had a way to go, pleasant enough however along the River Onny, before arriving at my Airbnb for the night. There has been no camping opportunities here and as it was dropping below zero tonight, that was a fortuitous outcome. Being able to have a hot shower with a proper towel, eat in and cook a pizza with a small bottle of wine was a great treat. And with a shop just round the corner I can figure out supplies for camping tomorrow as I set off in the morning. 

Why am I insisting on this camping lark??!!





Comments

  1. Your account continues to fascinate though the weather doesn't always appeal. Mum and I went to Stokesay when staying at Ludlow. Beautiful. You now have Georgie and Maria with you and Martin soon after for a Peak District reunion. Wish I was there!
    Much love to all. xxx Dad

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