Day 28: Monmouth to Llangattock Lingoed (15.2 miles)

I headed into town for coffee and pain au chocolat then resupply at Waitrose. Minor drama as I got trapped between their two automatic doors - apparently they aren’t supposed to be operational because of shop lifting. Bizarrely, I had to fight with claustrophobia - it obviously set off a panic response in me, and caused some consternation and embarrassment for the staff.

I took my time breaking camp - the tent was very wet with condensation but I wasn’t too cold last night despite the frost. I won’t put a reflective blanket on top of the sleeping bag in future as condensation forms on the underside making the sleeping bag damp. It turned into a pleasant leisurely start and I set off just before 10:15 after chatting to the friendly campers on caravans around me.

The tree blossom is in full swing now and wisteria is starting to flower on the front of some of the houses … I wonder how mine is doing on the pergola. It was already heating up as I left campsite so I was already in T-shirt and rolled up my 3/4 trousers into shorts!! 22 degrees forecast today then starts to change over weekend to cooler days warmer nights and showers.

I entered Hendre wood - there was a lot of ash with die-back - such a shame, but so far it hasn’t been cleared out. I had elevenses at the top of the Hendre - it was quite a stiff climb, and helped a grandfather and his grandson with map reading and loading Outdooractive app. I encouraged the grandson to think about subscribing to OS maps if he is keen.

I love this time of year for the birdsong. Martin used to get fed up of me saying this was my favourite time of year. I don’t think that’s true any more - I’ve come to love all the seasons in different ways. But this is a special time of year as the earth re-awakens.

I’d been noticing an absence of swallows etc so imagine my delight when I saw some dozen house martins flitting in and out of Old Hendre Farm and the surrounding archways and barns. On the slopes above I came across a scene of contentment - sheep and their lambs dozing by the pond. There were a number of ponds like this throughout the day.

I stopped at Llanfihangel church for squash and chatted with lady looking after the graveyard in what she hopes the chairman of the parish will accept as a naturalistic look. Parish politics looming! I stopped shortly after for lunch around 13:30 and left just before 14:00. My chocolate drops had turned into liquid... messy but very tasty!

Since coming down from Hendre much of the walk was through gently, and not so gently, undulating farmland with mainly sheep and their lambs (lots of them!) but also there were some very handsome Parkhill cattle. …. Apart from that there was the seemingly endless red soil!

I finally saw a solitary swallow as I was entering the hamlet of Nantyderri Farm and realised I was seeing more orange tip than peacock butterflies today. Not in great numbers but always interesting to see how the butterflies appear at different times.

I bumped into two gentlemen out walking twice - the second time they were rather sheepish admitting they were a bit lost having left one car at Gaggle Street near Llanvetherine and the other at Redbrook by the Boat Inn I had passed yesterday. They were now heading back to Llanvetherine as they seemed to be walking in circles and were giving up!

I got to White Castle quite suddenly at 4pm having thought again that perhaps I’d been about too leisurely. I spent a pleasant time exploring this impressive if ruined castle with complete moat, picking up the historical vibes of the past. I left rather reluctantly at 1630.

Coming down towards Llanvetherine I noticed a flock of sheep sounding somewhat distressed. They were surrounding a 2-3 month lamb which looked as though it had died recently with no obvious cause of death. As I passed them by, the flock left the body and moved into the neighbouring field.

What I hadn’t taken in until the last couple of days is that Offa’s Dyke Trail was 50 years old in 2021. Pennine Way is 60 this year. Both are well-established trails. The undulations became more marked as I drew closer to my destination for the day Llangattock Lingoed. There was a final pull up to the white-washed church and just down the hill from there Hunter’s Moon Inn. I’ve been spoiled - put into a beautiful room with first drink compliments of the landlord, and invited to sit in he garden where my room is as the sun lasts an hour longer than the beer garden.