Day 26: Aust to Tidenham Chase, Wales (10.9 miles)

After doing some research over the next few days and pulling together notes on the geology so far, I joined Sarie for breakfast before we set off back to Aust. Sarie dropped me off at 9:30. It felt like a real wrench to leave friends and Bristol behind and I was sorry to go.

Walking over the bridge was an experience I had anticipated with some interest although I expected it to be more exposed than it happened to be this morning. It was good to have the time to appreciate the structure even as it vibrated, to appreciate the surroundings and watch the ever-changing eddies of the water.

I noticed a large gully intruding through the mudflats and wondered if it was a problem. Looking at the OS map it looks as though it has an appropriate name: the Hunger Pill. By10:30 I was over the bridge heading around the outskirts of Chepstow. Part of this was a pleasant walk was along the River Wye before leading into the town centre where I picked up supplies and treated myself to a pre-prepared M&S dinner! I felt a little like a child in a sweet shop and really got more than I needed. I’ll certainly have plenty of opportunity to build up my calorie intake ahead of the exertions of the next few days!

I paused then to have an early lunch at marmalade house (jacket potato). Yet again, there were a super people in the cafe looking to advise on my route (someone who had cycled LEJOG) and to donate and I was then very moved when a slender and frail looking lady squeezed my arm, wished my luck and gave me a couple of lemon sherbets to keep my energy up!

I had looked forward to seeing the castle - further developed by William Marshall along with his wife Isobel in the 12th century - and wasn’t disappointed as I crossed the old iron bridge.  Two of my daughters - Georgie and Maria - came camping with me a couple of summers ago and we had enjoyed exploring the castle, the abbey and the river. We had camped at Beeches Farm, just up the lane from Chase House where I am is, so the next day or so is going to be like going down a very fond memory lane. We had a lot of fun!

I eventually joined Offa’s Dyke path above the old iron bridge, as an orange tip butterfly fluttered by - apparently to quite rare nowadays. Offa’s Dyke Path is at times something of a misnomer as the dyke isn’t clearly visible in the south, and from what I gather really comes into its own after Knighton. Which is where I will leave it. I am becoming more and more in tune with the principle that my priority is walking to John O’Groats and I should use the most convenient, appropriate or appealing routes for me to do so. So I am contemplating descending to Tintern (where I may enjoy a coffee at the Old Mill where my daughters and I enjoyed an excellent cream tea) and possibly follow the river all the way to Monmouth before picking up the ODP. But that is a decision for tomorrow.

This afternoon I was high above the river, catching tantalising glimpses of the gorge and the river, and at one point looking down into a deep quarry. I admired Wintour’s Leap and the pronounced meanders of the river that you can view here.

At this point the OFP broke away from the river and followed ploughed fields with banks of three cornered leek in flower (I checked the stalk and yes it is 3 sides!) and a buzzard soared over head. It then branched back through woodland to be high above the river. But even though the leaves aren’t fully out, the views to the river were few and obscured by the trees. But the sense of height and the sheer size of the gorge is still imposing - but this convinces me that I’d prefer to be down by the river tomorrow.

I arrived at Chase House and my accommodation for the night at 15:30 with time to relax in the sun learning about the history of the house, and writing my notes while enjoying the complimentary and very fresh chocolate chip cup cake. I get the feeling I shall enjoy tonight, but at nearly 17:00 the evening is beginning to chill and I shall head inside.