For my nineteenth day of walking I left at 10:45 following a first-rate breakfast, plus having KT taped shoulders and hips and adjusted the length of frame and how I distribute weight (again) of backpack. I would see later whether chatGPT had the right idea!!!
One of the banes of the walk is ill fitting or collapsed gates which have to be lifted to open and shut. Too many during the day (or stiles) makes for a harder day! But when they actually work - such a relief!
There was a glorious view from Lype Hill - I could see Cardiff and Barry across the Channel, the gap to Porlock, the Quantocks ahead and Dunkery Beacon already looking distant behind me. It’s amazing the distance you can cover, walking (or in my case it can feel more like plodding with my friend the backpack) steadily through the day. The scene of the Quantocks where I hope to camp tomorrow is alluring.
So far I feel so much better. Last night at the Inn, with a splendid 3-course carb and protein-rich meal and a wonderfully comfy bed, was the chance to press the reset button both mentally and physically. Ibuprofen gel overnight on my knees and then re-strapping them this morning seems to have done the trick there. And with all the calories last night AND porridge and cooked breakfast this morning, my legs are working well. For once eating that volume didn’t seem a problem at all, although I confess I did make myself a bacon butty for later!
Amazingly, and with great relief, the backpack so far feels much more comfortable. I thought I’d sorted the fit of it before setting out on this challenge, but clearly not. Reflecting back on the day, I don’t need to go to the gym when these spring-loaded gates need all my effort with both hands!! One gate I thought I would have to vault over. Now that would have been an entertaining sight with my backpack 🥴🤣. I delighted in the beautiful hedge-lined fields across the valley above Luxborough, their shadows accentuating their presence.
I’ll have to check the geology - and indeed it would appear I am in Devonian sandstone country - the local architecture is a dead giveaway. But the smooth moss-covered rocks underfoot in the small pathways leaving Wheddon Cross and down to Luxborough were very slippy! And with overgrown brambles now going down the old lane (signposted as “uneven surface” with an alternative route I would now definitely take) I think this would be impassable in the summer. I came away with just a scratched neck and ear so all good! I must admit that track was probably the most difficult of the trip so far - I thought I was going to have to go back at one point - but I was delighted to see a pair of red-legged partridge take off just as I finally escaped at the exit gate.
A pleasant walk along the stream and woodlands followed until I eventually emerged beyond Churchtown and into the Kingsbridge part of Luxborough at 13:40. With a little hesitancy I walked past the Royal Oak and climbed the hill up above Pooltown where I found shelter from the wind (yes it’s still blowing but not quite as bitter I think) where with the warmth of the sun, I took my boots and socks off to give them and me a bit of a break and to enjoy the view at my leisure. I had to drag myself away from this pleasant spot around 14:40, much to the amusement and curiosity of a flock of sheep in the neighbouring field.
There were superb views from the ridge walking toward Roadwater - across the Bristol Channel including the island within it to west of Watchet. Buzzards and maybe goshawk this time were circling above Langridge Forest and as I descended into the wood I was suddenly hearing lots of songbirds again - robins mainly and of course, blackcaps. Further along, I came to what is referred to on OS maps as a Cist - a prehistoric grave with capstone.
Approaching the village of Roadwater a couple of peacock butterflies flew ahead of me for a couple of 100 metres and the sound and sight of bumble bees in the sun, and being out of the wind made me feel that spring had really arrived. But of course, a camp outside was ahead of me so I headed to the excellent local store where I was made very welcome and given a cup of tea before heading up to camp for the night. And then a kind lady who realised I would be camping offered me a bed for the night - I couldn’t have been more pleased! I was equally delighted to meet Kate Hughes - an environmental journalist who is passionate about sustainability and has written the book “Getting to Zero” where she was aiming to plant 100,000 trees on her farm ….. she’s up to 82,000!
Wild camping is all well and good but finding a place which is discreet, sheltered and flat can be quite stressful even though it gives me more flexibility about when I stop walking. “Campwild” is an amazing organisation connecting people with a desire to break away from conventional camping and have their own space with landowners who offer particular camping spots which are graded according to their nature and ease. I plan to stay at a few of their places, and Alex and Tom have been incredibly helpful, supporting my fundraising and hunting out potential spots which may coincide with my route.
Here’s to a good night’s sleep feeling so much more confident now!
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