Day 7: Holywell to Mawgan Porth (13 miles)

Somewhat to my surprise this was a really interesting and varied day.  With heavy rain forecast into the afternoon, I was feeling reluctant to get out of bed! And certainly not enthused about getting moving. My legs seemed to agree and it was well into the morning before I really felt I was moving well.  We were surprised by this as we had treated ourselves to steak at the Sloop Inn the night before thinking this would set us up for the day, but it made me think (apologies vegetarians) how lions have to sleep off their feasts!

Setting off from Holywell I was delighted the rain hadn’t come through and although I set off through and enjoyed the sand dunes, when I saw a dauntingly large slope coming up I diverted down onto the east side of the beach to check the geology and seek a cave I’d heard about - the Boly Well at that end. The views were gorgeous but the tide wasn’t low enough as yet to see the cave - and what’s more I hadn’t avoided a steep sand slope to get back on the path!

A pleasant stroll round the headland brought me to Porth Joke where I was delighted to discover that one of the coves is used by seals to haul out.  The tide wasn’t right for this but there were half a dozen seals playing at the cove entrance- a delight to watch! I’d sat having lunch on a bench the opposite side of the cove in 2022 watching a single seal playing in the waves - I’d had no idea at the time that this was where they gathered.

Just along the path I then noticed fulmars flying in and sure enough when I cast my eye over the cliff edge a number were perched on the cliff edges giving me the chance for a close up photo. I have to say, despite disparaging remarks to Martin that I should get the latest phone, I am really pleased with this new iPhone 16 I was treated to at Christmas both for the camera but also its battery life - my old one struggled to last a day whereas this is easily lasting two.

At this point Martin appeared over the top and we proceeded to walk together - spotting more fulmars this time courting on the cliffs with their characteristic nasal cackle - then around the back of Crantock beach and towards the foot crossing of the River Gannel.  About 1/4 mile short of this we descended on to the shore line - and this was when the rain finally came in - much later than we had expected, and we certainly couldn’t complain. But now was the time to get our full waterproofs on and rain covers on the backpacks - just in time as the rain turned to hail and was lashing down as we reached the ancient foot crossing which I have long wanted to use. With the tides not right last time I had had to go right up to the top of the estuary to the road crossing in 2025 much to my frustration.

After following the coastal path downstream again, once it headed inland and towards Pentire Point, I took the decision to go straight on and head for Newquay Harbour viewing the famous surfers’ Fistral beach from a distance as the rain lashed down and the easterly wind battered us.  It was with some relief as we headed down to the harbour that I spotted a cafe, “ Basket” which turned out to have super sandwiches, ciabatta and cakes, so we decided to use our packed lunches tomorrow and lunch here to wait for the heavy rain to pass through. A good decision made!

With the rain easing, we headed down into the harbour and along the beaches below the Newquay cliffs - dramatic as ever, particularly the suspension bridge linking an isolated house on a rock stack with the mainland.  Having kept quiet about this, I was amused to witness Martin’s surprise at seeing this!

Having admired the cliff geology, I headed up through Tolcarne holiday village ramp to the top while Martin headed back to the car he had parked at Crantock.

Once I got to the top, the easterly wind blasted me again, reminding me that I would have to watch my step as I walked around the cliffs.  A number of Zawns to navigate with significant landslides, causing problems for property near the edge, meant the route was by no means straight or level but led inevitably to Watersgate Beach - one that I love to see from high above watching the people and dogs enjoying the walk along the sand.  There is something about watching people and dogs - looking tiny against the sand and casting their long shadows - which I find so visually appealing. The spray from the waves continued to be blown seaward and the sand rippled and swept down the beach towards me - a dramatic sight.

As I came to the end of the beach, gorse in bloom cast a scent reminiscent of coconut sun cream - evocative of a long gone holiday when I joined Martin for a few days whilst he was doing fieldwork out there. The vivid yellow of the blooms were striking against the golden sands of Watersgate. And as I turned around feeling drops of rain I spied the start of a rainbow over the fields, ending I presumed where Mawgan Porth would be.

Yet more fantastic views across the cliffs and along Watergate to Newquay - with the sun starting to dip down and turning the water silvery I couldn’t resist more photos. I dragged myself away realising I was perhaps lingering too long as Martin was expecting me at 17:00 at Mawgan Porth.  I thought to do this easily as the route looked easy ahead …..

Uh oh - a large Zawn ahead - no such luck. Down I went, to find an isolated valley with a grassy platform out of the wind which would make a perfect camping spot. Let’s hope I find a few of those over the coming week.  I surprised myself as the route up felt easier than I expected with only the gusts causing me enough worry that I was using my left stick at an angle to keep me from being blown off balance. 

A couple of men caught my eye as they were clearly looking for somewhere to camp. I spoke with them and we agreed it was rather too early to set up camp, but I told them of what I spotted further along, and they told me one they had spotted nearer to Mawgan Porth. I found this exchange really encouraging - it’s clear that those walking the trail are keen to watch out for each other and help as required.

At Beacon Cove, a mix of gulls and to my surprise a pair of oystercatchers on the sand (I’d normally expect them on the rocky outcrops) below made me smile as I was enjoying their appearance against their shadows on the sand in the same way as those people and dogs on Watergate.

As I rounded Bre Pen headland I continued to be fascinated by the wind blown spray off the waves - and the sunlight playing on the ripples in the shallows. A number of surfers were out catching the waves with some success. I admit always think of penguins when I watch them paddling out, patiently waiting for the right waves - no wonder “Surfs Up” followed this thinking!

Finally the beach of Mawgan Porth came into view and as I descended I saw Martin sunning on the rocks, out of the wind, down below.  He’d only just got back to the car and driven round as I appeared.

Another very satisfying day and today with my new boots with the worn in soles my feet felt fine, unlike the day before where the arch of my right foot was uncomfortable when I stopped walking.  I’ve almost decided that my faithful leather boots are going to have to be left behind - with the stitching starting to rot (I suspect I’ve been too generous with the dubbin) - it’s going to be a risk to continue on with them however much I’d like to. I had also carried my backpack today, albeit with the minimum in it, but with a rain cover and the urge to get used to the different strapping and layout of pockets again, I was glad to feel comfortable and confident of re-adding the finessed load when Martin leaves me on Sunday.