Day 8: Mawgan Porth to Trevone (12.9 miles)

Although drizzle greeted the morning, by the time we had arrived back at Mawgan Porth it had cleared and waterproofs were not required. We walked across the beach watching the Surf School lesson move from sand to water but at this point in the day it looked like the waves were breaking too early into the Cove for the surfers to catch anything reasonable. Later on would be another story!

Walking along the cliffs we saw more fulmars and gulls with the possibility of kittiwakes but I need to check their identification. But then the highlight of the day - Bedruthan Steps with perfect lighting, bright sun and huge crashing waves. Stunning. We met a couple who were intrigued by my walk and wanted to take a photo of us to inspire the grandchildren to get off their phones!! I was very grateful later to see they had made a donation.

We paused and had elevenses here - the view was too stunning to rush. Martin decided to head back to the car and walk out to meet me from Trevone. Continuing on, I kept looking back to the Steps, and enjoyed the Cornish choughs playing aerial acrobatics. Oystercatchers were calling as they flew by. I walked out to Parks Head although the SWCP cuts across as I wanted to relish the lighting once more over the Steps before proceeding on.

This part of the coastline is continually cut into by zawns, so what appears to be a straightforward route turns out to be a mad zigzag where at times it feels as though you will never reach your destination. But what were now huge Atlantic rollers created drama, booming and crashing on the rocks with the spray reaching high up onto the cliffs. I couldn’t resist stopping again at the Trescoe Islands - 3 outcrops which at times were almost overwhelmed by the surf - an awesome sight.

Going around the back of Porthcothan I then climbed up to the next headland and dropped down onto a grassy dell just above Will’s Rock to enjoy the waves breaking on the rocks while having some lunch.

The zigzags around zawns continued to Treyarnon Bay, where I didn’t linger wanting to get as far as possible to minimise how far Martin needed to walk as he’s having problems with hip pain and shin splints. Reaching Constantine Bay I was delighted to find a mobile coffee bar - where I bought my now preferred hot chocolate. The bay was gorgeous and those huge Atlantic rollers crashing in were a sight to behold. Bobby’s Cove and a rush of WhatsApps from the family brought me round to Trevose Head and the remarkable Round Hole where the sea has eroded the cliffs underground to form a cave whose roof eventually collapsed in - there are several of these along this coastline but this is perhaps the biggest with the mysterious sound of the sea rolling in though you are 100’s of metres away - very disorientating - and today with the tide quite high the water coming in was visible as well.

Pressing on I passed by the lighthouse and descended into Mother Ivey’s Bay where Martin was waiting on a bench overlooking the fabulous Trevone Life Boat Station where, in 2022 I had been thrilled to witness the spectacular launch of the boat down the steep ramp and into the sea.

Martin wanted to walk on the beaches back - and the first seemed like an arduous down and up steep banks for little gain, making me somewhat grumpy, but the next beach, Harlyn Bay was a joy and allowed us to cut off a corner of the walk by walking across the sands.

Into the home-straits now we rounded the headland to look into Trevone Bay where we continued to be astounded by the huge waves, and then admired the sea pool with a number of people bathing there. And thence back to the car and our last drive back to St Ives before leaving Betty’s Cottage and going our separate ways. Lots to get packed and sorted tonight - as well as controlling my nerves/panic(!) - so I’ll leave this particular log here.