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Day 46: Hebden Bridge to Ponden (12 miles)

I started out around 8:30, saying goodbye to Martin until I meet him in Malham to pick up my camping stuff. I walked up behind the B&B through the woods to re-join the Pennine Way. The bluebells on the steep slopes were amazing - and despite my poor sense of smell these days I was pleased to pick up the occasional drift of scent as the sun warmed up. Indeed the heat was rising quickly and it felt humid. Coming out of the woods to the fields I was glad for the occasional breeze - but it was occasional! I recalled the wonderful sound of curlews calling here in March 2020 - all seemed quiet until 3 flew over. This part of the walk is undulating as it crosses a couple of valleys running parallel with a particularly attractive stone bridge spanning the “Golden Water” stream.  I was relieved to reach Mays Shop at 10:30 but was dismayed to see a Closed sign. Although there was a door bell saying ring for attention I was reluctant to do so, but apparently there’s a camera and sure enou...

Day 45: Marsden to Hebden Bridge (16.1 miles)

Last night and this morning were very much planning logistics for the next week as I transition to 3 nights of B&Bs, meet Martin for a resupply at Malham for 2 nights of wild camping, and then do a final resupply at Keld to take me through to Fort William. And at that time make a final decision on whether to go on the Cape Wrath Trail which is worrying me if the weather is inclement. That’s a decision for a week’s time but I want to pencil out the route on my hardcopy OS maps to ensure it’s all clear in my head over the next few days. We left Martin’s Mum at 9 and headed back to Standedge picking up packed lunch for me on the way. What I’ve liked about this commuting to and fro is that it has given me a better context of the Pennine Way - both of parts of the country I know but also parts I’d not been to or remembered before just as names I’d heard as a child while listening to my mother talk to her Mum, or to Dad….. Stalybridge, Marple, Whaley Bridge, Mottram A pair of curlew gree...

Day 44: Torside/Crowden to Marsden (13.1 miles)

Driving back from Martin’s Mum’s house we left the car at Crowden at 10 having ensured I had walked the equivalent distance to following the Pennine Way.   I heard first a cuckoo, and then curlews, with plenty of willow warblers all along the valley. To my delight a pair of lapwing performed their acrobatics while issuing their distinctive cry. We met a couple of men who were fascinated by what I was doing and shared that they are planning 7 weeks to Peru and Chile and wanted to follow my blog. They later kindly made a donation.  Laddow Rocks, as ever, was stunning. It’s one of my highlights of the Pennine Way.  As we stood soaking up the sun and the view I heard the sound of a bird of prey and a little later we watched a kestrel fly out from the rocks and disappear flying high into the distance.  We stopped for elevenses at our favourite grass patch by the stream where last time Martin had had a siesta while I watched a wren feeding up and down the stream. This time...

Day 43: Edale to Torside (18 miles)

The Newfold Farm campsite is superb with a new block of hotel standard (in my view of course from wild camping) and a real bonus that it being a Friday the cafe was open until 8pm so I was able to sit in there to sort notes etc. The downside was that I was cold during the night and the Alpkit bivy bag hadn’t got delivered on time. My left knee and glute were protesting and it was only at 4 am that I thought to let some air out so the mattress was softer. That was a big improvement. It’s become a real love hate relationship with my tent I’m afraid. So, with Martin close by at his mother’s I’ve decided to take advantage of going back to creature comforts while Martin is in striking distance, which also means I won’t have to carry the full weight of the backpack for awhile. I hope nobody is disappointed that I’m forgoing soft for a while. Think of it as the equivalent of a raft day… 1st of June feels a long way off for a break from walking everyday! I woke at 4:45 to the dawn chorus and t...